Glacier National Park, MT: July 14-22, 2007

Glacier National Park: July 14-22, 2007

Our plane arrived in Kalispell, now renamed Glacier Park International Airport, on time but they lost two of our suitcases. It was 93 degrees! We had to return to the airport five times before we finally got all our bags and picked up my brother, John, and my sister, Sharon, and were ready to head to Glacier National Park. We set up our tents at Fish Creek Campground and after finishing dinner barely had time to head over to Avalanche Lake trailhead for the four mile round trip hike. In fact, we had to hike the last mile in the dark, even though it didn’t get dark until 10:00 PM. I saw a black bear run across the trail not long after commencing. There were many Swainson’s Thrushes and Varied Thrushes singing all along the trail. The hike follows Avalanche Creek terminating at the lake where it is fed by numerous waterfalls. It’s a dramatic hike but hard to appreciate in the failing light. It was still warm enough to wear shorts when we returned back to camp.

Sunday, July 15, 2007
After breakfast at our very private campsite at Fish Creek we drove to the Sperry Chalet trailhead. The first three miles of the trail passes exclusively through forest. There were few flowers blooming; the trail was dusty and full of horse piss and droppings which none of us liked at all. We could hear Snyder Creek nearby but the trail afforded no views of it. We almost turned back we were so disappointed. In one clearing I saw a Vaux’s Swift fly by and there were more Swainson’s Thrushes and Varied Thrushes singing. After the trail crossed over the creek, it began to climb steeply up switchbacks past the Medicine Falls and then through expansive views of the high country. As the trail opened up we began to pass extensive wildflowers and butterflies including Glacier's signature plant, Bear Grass, California False-hellebore, Claytonia, Twin Flower, and lots of Birch-leaf Spiraea. While stopping for a break several people on horses passed us, one of them letting the horse stop to piss elaborately in front of us. It was disgusting and stinky. Finally into the high country we were treated to mountain vistas, multiple blooming wildflowers, Subalpine Spiraea, sulphur flower, lots of singing MacGillivray’s Warblers, Pine Siskins, Black-capped Chickadess, and many butterflies, including Mariposa Copper, Purplish Copper, Purplish Fritillary, and Acmon Blue. We arrived at the Chalet too late to make the trek up to Sperry Glacier and so after enjoying the fantastic views we turned around and headed back down the smelly horse trail. We heard an Olive-sided Flycatcher singing. Dozens of people were hiking down the trail as it was Sunday and they were concluding their stay at Sperry Chalet; this must have accounted for the abundance of horse droppings. On the way back we stopped at the bridge over Snyder Creek and cooled our throbbing feet from our 13.6 round trip hike before descending back to the car. Next we drove to Inner North Fork Road and had a shower by placing the solar shower on top of the car. As luck would have it no sooner was it my turn and I was completely naked than some idiot pulled up and started sawing down trees in the forest and putting them in his truck. Some Cedar Waxwings came and landed in a tree by the car and we found a bush full of ripe huckleberries which we ate. After the thief left everyone else had their turn and then we returned to our cute little camp at Fish Creek and fell fast asleep.

Monday, July 16, 2007
We packed up our camp gear, loaded up everything in the van and headed up Going-to-the-Sun Road. This road is one of the park highlights as it ascends dramatically up to Logan Pass at 6680 feet with dramatic views of the many waterfalls including 682 foot Bird Woman Falls. Alpine daisies, Brown-eyed Susans, and Bergamot were blooming all along the road. We drove all the way past Logan Pass to Rising Sun Campground and set up camp for the remainder of the trip. The campsite was nestled in huckleberry patches that were dripping with ripe huckleberries that John enjoyed picking and putting in his cereal in the mornings. After our camp was set up we drove to Many Glacier Road where we saw a black bear up a hillside. We parked at Swiftcurrent picnic area and headed for the Grinnell Glacier trailhead which we were extremely disappointed to find closed three miles ahead. When Sharon and I went to Glacier Park in 1999 we were unable to make it to Grinnell Glacier on account of a tremendous amount of snow on the trail with a treacherous angled snowbank making passage impossible. So it was particularly disappointing to find the trail to the glacier again closed. We decided to go ahead as far as we could. It was hot again and very hazy so that the normally incredible view back down to emerald green Grinnell Lake and the surrounding mountains was dulled. There were dozens of people on the trail making picture taking of the many butterflies challenging. We finally made it to the three mile marker where the trail was closed due to bear activity which we later learned was a carcass across the trail, and were not even able to see Grinnell Glacier just a big snow bank and a hazy view of a waterfall of melting glacier. We took our time moseying back down the trail to the car. On the way back John spotted a Dusky Grouse along the trail. Near the end of the hike we stopped by the lake and dipped our feet in the water. While resting, an Arctic Blue butterfly perched on my foot and then a Pearl Crescent butterfly landed on my shoulder and stayed there part of the way back down the trail. At the pond we saw a Rubber Boa swimming across. After our hike we decided to drive back to Logan Pass and take the Hidden Lake trail. It was late in the day but there were still people on this very popular trail. This trail is so popular in fact, that the park had to build a boardwalk all the way to the pond with the famous view back across to Reynolds Mountain reflected in the pool. American Pipits were standing in the meadow with some singing White-crowned Sparrows. Our view was dampened by the haze which still lingered in the air. But we still enjoyed the flower filled meadow. Glacier lilies were still blooming there in huge swaths along with heather, paintbrush, and many others. We saw some Big Horn Sheep browsing in the meadow. At the Hidden Lake Overlook we turned around and returned the way we came.

Tuesday, July 17, 2007
A Warbling Vireo was the first thing up and his sweet song woke us up. A Western Tanager perched in a tree during breakfast and serenaded us. We again drove to Many Glacier Road where we had planned to hike to beautiful Iceberg Lake. When we got to the entrance station we were so disappointed to learn that it too was closed due to bear activity. The ranger suggested that we try Swiftcurrent Pass so we followed her advice and were greatly rewarded by doing so. We parked at the end of Many Glacier Road and started up the Swiftcurrent Pass trail. This spectacular trail starts off flat as it passes through flower filled meadows with singing MacGillivray’s Warblers, three waterfalls, and two large lakes, Red Rock Lake and Bullhead Lake, before ascending steeply up challenging switchbacks up 2700 feet to the pass. It was still hot and hazy but we were unaware as we were dazzled by the magnificent scenery. In the meadow a MacGillivray’s Warbler popped up in a tree finally giving us a look at this elusive bird. At Bullhead Lake we saw a Moose with a calf far across the lake. We had lunch on the switchbacks near one of four streaming waterfalls. Near the pass American Pipits were singing in the meadow. When we got to Swifcurrent Pass we were very tired but John insisted that we also make the 1600 foot climb up to the lookout. I didn’t want to because it was so hazy but we trrudged up the trail anyway. While taking a break Susan spotted a raptor. As soon as I got it in my binoculars it flew off and I could make out the dark axillaries of a Prairie Falcon. We huffed and gasped for air before finally summiting for a 360 degree view of the park. What a shame it was so hazy; you could see that on a clear day it would have been an incredible view something to draw you back again and again if you ever were so lucky to have that chance. After munching on some huckleberries and snacks we started back down the steep switchbacks. Half way down the steep switchbacks I was surprised to see a White-tailed Deer with a huge rack resting under a rock. Susan got mad because she was relieving herself in the woods and I didn’t yell that Sharon was coming quickly enough. She stormed down the trail not stopping at all until back at the creek. I have never seen her hike so fast. Nearly back to the car Sharon and Susan stopped at Fisher Cap Lake, a small lake before the two main lakes, and saw a very close male moose. Just as we finished our hike a light rain began to fall. As we headed back down Many Glacier Road we came upon a traffic jam. We looked up the hillside and saw a grizzly bear with two cubs. We tried to take pictures but the ranger asked us to move on. We drove back to Rising Sun picnic area across the street from our campground and had our dinner. The picnic area was empty but it stopped raining long enough for us to have dinner. After dinner John hung his solar shower up in the men’s room and showered and then I hung it up in the women’s room and showered while Susan and Sharon waited in a long line at Rising Sun for the pay showers. We slept well after our grueling 17 mile hike with a 3500 foot elevation gain, even though it rained all night.

July 18, 2007
I wanted to hike the Belly River trail but after reading the summary John refused because horses are allowed on the trail; he didn’t want to take anymore trails with horse piss and pooh. We stopped at the brand new St. Mary Visitor Center and John asked the backcountry ranger to make a suggestion. Out in the parking lot an Osprey was on her nest with her chicks. The ranger suggested Siyeh Pass so we took her advice and drove to Siyeh Bend and parked the car. Most people walk the 11 mile hike one way ending at Sunrift Gorge and taking the shuttle back to Siyeh Bend. We intended to make it a long loop by continuing along St. Mary Lake back to the bend. We started up the trail and soon came to two large gray birds in the forest which I believe were Northern Goshawks. We were greeted with many meadows of wildflowers before starting a steep ascent up a rocky talus slope to 7750 foot Siyeh Pass with commanding alpine views. Despite the harsh conditions wildflowers were blooming along the talus slope, lousewort, St. John’s Wort, and many others. The views were amazing at the pass but it was too windy so we dropped down a bit before enjoying lunch in front of Sexton Glacier. A Gray-crowned Rosy-finch flew onto a rock nearby. After lunch we descended the pass through incredible wildflower filled fields with many butterflies, Queen Alexandria’s Sulphur, Rocky Mountain Parnassian, Milbert’s Tortoiseshell, and several species of fritillary. The views on the other side of the pass were breathtaking. As we descended three glacier fed waterfalls far below came into view. It was the kind of scene that is hard to take your eyes away from. There were many people on the trail riding our rears; I don’t know why they were in such a hurry. They didn’t stop for a butterfly, a flower, a waterfall; I don’t know why they didn’t just stay at home and ride a treadmill for pete’s sake. The end of the trail came to a redrock lined waterfall before ending at sunrift gorge where we saw a Lorquin’s Admiral right next to a White Admiral. Sharon and Susan took the shuttle back to Siyeh Bend and John and I took the St. Mary Lake Trail. John forgot his binoculars on a rock and had to run about a mile back up the trail to get them. Back on the trail first we passed uninspiring Baring Falls and then walked along St. Mary Lake with outstanding views of towering mountains in the background. We passed on St. Mary falls and continued to Deadman Falls before making the steep ascent out of Gunsight Pass trail back to Going-to-the-Sun Road where we were too exhausted to make the last 2.5 miles back to Siyeh Bend. Fortunately Sharon and Susan drove by on their way back from the store and picked us up. Sharon and Susan again stood in a long line at Rising Sun pay shower while John and I went to Sun Point picnic area and hung up the solar shower on the car. While John was completely nude a guy in a truck made two slow passes making sure to look down between the car where John was bathing. As we left we saw a man preparing to camp illegally at Sun Point. I wonder if bears were attracted by the smell of our soap and attacked the illegal camper after we left.

Thursday, July 19, 2007
I woke everybody up at 5:00 AM to give us plenty of time to drive into Canada to Waterton Lakes National Park. Shortly after going through customs I saw a Ruffed Grouse in the road so I pulled over to get some pictures. Later we stopped and saw Red-naped Sapsucker, Rufous Hummingbird, Hairy Woodpecker, Townsend’s Solitaire, Northern Flicker, and Fox Sparrow. There were many other birds but we had to go in order to catch the 9:00 AM boat across Waterton Lake to Crypt Landing where we planned to hike to Crypt Lake. Across the lake from the boat launch sits the historic Prince of Wales Hotel. The hike was horrible and I will never take it again. Because you must take a boat to get to the trailhead it basically funnels 50 people shotgun style up the trail in a long line. There is no chance to get pictures of butterflies or look at birds because if you stop to do anything 45 people will pass you and you will be stuck marching with a bunch of obnoxious people all day long which is exactly what happened. The boat company claims it is rated the number one hike in Canada but if that’s all Canada has to offer then I would prefer to continue hiking in the US. The hike made a steep ascent up past a waterfall and then through a 2.5 foot wide tunnel before ending at an uninspiring subalpine lake where we were forced to eat lunch with 40 noisy people. The only interesting thing at the lake were three species of trout, Brown, Rainbow, and Cutthroat. At the end of the hike we took a side trip to Hellroaring Canyon Falls where we again were stuck in a line of hikers on a single track trail. It was awful. Back at the boat dock we were trapped with the same 50 people waiting for the boat to pick us up. I couldn’t wait to get out of there. After the boat dropped us off we drove past the famous Prince of Wales Hotel. Susan wanted to stop inside to have high tea but then changed her mind. So we drove to the end of Redrock Canyon Road and walked out on a bridge over lovely Bauerman Creek. I had to pry everyone off of the bridge to get them to take the Blakeston Falls trail where we saw more wildflowers. We had our dinner at the picnic area there and then it was a long drive back to Rising Sun campground.

Friday, July 20, 2007
It was Susan and my fifth anniversary. I had planned a hike to Cobalt Lake in the Two Medicine Area. John was skeptical of my choice but it turned out to be the best hike of the trip in my opinion. Sharon and I had taken the hike in July 1999 but a snow storm came the night before blanketing the area and we couldn’t see much, only enough to tell that we should come back again one day. The trail started out on the south shore of Medicine Lake through wildflower-filled meadows before coming to a pond where we saw several Common Yellow-throats. Sharon and Susan stopped to look at some flowers and John was about five feet behind me when I saw a grizzly bear about 30 feet away. I had my video camera out and started filming it. It was eating something in the meadow and didn’t notice me at first. Then it looked up and looked me right in the eye. John started backing away leaving me standing there all by myself. I kept telling Sharon and Susan to come up to me because I didn’t think the bear would mess with four people. But no they just left me standing there alone right in front of the bear. Fortunately the bear decided to cross the trail instead of eating me and hopped into a pond and swam away. That is the first grizzly bear I have ever encountered on a trail; I think I would have fainted if I had been alone. There were more alpine birds along the trail, Winter Wren, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Brown Creeper, and MacGillivray’s Warbler. We took a side trail to Aster waterfall before crossing Paradise creek on a suspension bridge and then beginning a relatively gentle climb up past red and black towering Mount Rockwell. We came to another waterfall, Rockwell falls, where we stopped to have lunch. While eating, John spotted an American Dipper in the falls. After lunch we continued our climb a little more steeply. We found some ripe blueberries along the trail which we stopped to pick and eat. They were delicious. Next we passed through an ineffable wildflower display along the creek. There was one enormous patch of Lewis’s Monkeyflower and endless patches of other flowers all along the creek. The scene was indescribably beautiful. Finally we came to Cobalt Lake nestled in Paradise Peak. While cooling our feet in the clear blue lake John detected an animal he thought was a badger on the hillside on the far shore. Later we determined it was a Long-tailed Weasel. A Spotted Sandpiper was on the shore of the lake and two Hoary Marmots were running up the hillside being chased by a bird and pecked on the back. After resting a bit we turned back the way we came. I heard a warbler giving a chip note in some willows so I pished and a MacGillivray’s Warbler shot out and nearly flew into us. That night at camp I heard a Great Horned Owl hooting.

Saturday, July 21, 2007
We got up, packed up all our things, and left Rising Sun Campground. We drove back to Logan Pass and parked. It was extremely windy and cold in the parking area. We crossed the road and started the Highline Trail along the Garden Wall, a very famous section of Glacier Park with commanding views of the glacier filled alpine country with its many waterfalls, wildflowers, and butterflies. There were a few people on the trail but they were spread out and it wasn’t too bad. We soon came to some Big Horn Sheep right off the trail. Mountain Goats walked right past us. Not far down the trail I found a Pine Grosbeak perched right out in the open on a Subalpine Fir. Two more flew in and a Calliope Hummingbird also flew in while I was admiring the Grosbeak. The trail is carved out of the side of the mountain and passes through intermittent forests and then meadows. In the forested area I found two Townsend’s Warblers. At 6.8 miles we came to a spur trail that climbs 1000 feet in just 1 km. We stopped and had lunch before making this arduous climb. It was well worth the effort as it ended at a tremendous view down to Grinnell Glacier. Finally after eight years I saw Grinnell Glacier. It was extremely windy at the overlook but Susan and I found a crevice in the rocks where we were protected from the wind and could enjoy the view. While sitting admiring this ancient glacier that will one day be no more, two Calliope Hummingbirds buzzed right past our heads and over the pass. After everyone had his or her fill of this spectacular overlook we walked back down to the trail junction and on to Granite Park Chalet where people make reservations a year in advance to stay and enjoy the amazing views of Mount Gould and the Haystack. We were so tired hiking back to the car. Most people continue past Granite Park Chalet on the shorter, 4.4 mile Loop trail and take the shuttle back to their car, so we saw few people as we re-traced our steps. We stopped and soaked our tired feet in one of the many dripping pools along the way. After our hike we stopped at Avalanche Creek picnic area and had our last picnic before heading out of the park to Kalispell to the Outlaw Hotel where things went terribly wrong. We were so tired after hiking nearly 100 miles all week. But the hotel sent us from room to room every time only to find it already occupied. Finally after four tries Sharon and John got situated and everybody went to sleep. I was awoken at the ungodly hour of 5:00 AM by John telling me the shuttle did not come to pick him up. So I had to get up and drop him off at the airport. Then no sooner was I back in bed than Sharon came to have breakfast. After breakfast we went back into the park for a last leisurely walk to Rocky Point along Lake MacDonald where we saw a Red Squirrel. After taking Sharon to the airport Susan and I went back to the park again and hiked the Johns Lake Trail to Sacred Dancing Cascade where we saw some Gray Jays and some more Winter Wrens. We had intended to hike the entire loop but the bridge over McDonald Creek had been slammed into by trees during a violet flood. A Compton's Tortoiseshell was perched right on the demolished bridge: we ended our travels there and headed back to Glacier Park Airport where it was still a balmy 93 degrees. Our flight was delayed two hours due to an air traffic hold at San Francisco Airport on account of fog. As the plane passed over the glacier filled peaks of the Rocky Mountains I looked down at them in awe. These ancient remnants of the last ice age will one day be gone and with it too probably all the precious sacred places I treasure so much, destroyed by endless development and demands for housing for our burgeoning population. As the plane moved on and the mountains moved out of view, I looked down ruefully, sad to leave it behind but happy and satisfied that I'd had the wonderful opportunity to see this majestic place again.