YOSEMITE & MONO BASIN JULY 1-4, 2006

Yosemite National Park & Mono Basin
June 30-July 4, 2006

On Friday, June 30, 2006, Susan picked me up from the MacArthur BART station at 3:30 PM and we drove from there to Tioga Pass. It took five hours just to get to the east entrance gate in Yosemite due to heavy traffic so we stopped at the Kerry Stainer Memorial Campground (Moraine Campground in Inyo National Forest) and picked out a spot there to camp. It was on a slight hill with no flat area for a tent. However, since reopening last year they have installed large bear-proof containers for your coolers and food. Even though it only has vault toilets and no water they still charge the unseemly price of $14 a night. Tuolumne Meadows Campground was closed and so there were an above average number of campers that night. We paid for two nights so we wouldn’t have to take the tent down in the morning before our planned hike to Waterwheel Falls in Tuolumne Meadows. I slept poorly and had much pain as I slipped into a gully. I got up in the middle of the night to pee and uncrink my body and the night sky was spectacular. Other than that it was a dreadful night of fitful sleep. I finally found a plateau and moved my body over it and fell asleep but no sooner was I asleep than the alarm went off and off we went. We parked at the meadows and started out toward Soda Springs. At the trailhead for Glen Aulin we found two Red Crossbills in their usual spot along with some Cassin’s Finches and Pine Siskins. The sky was electric blue and it soon warmed up to tank top degrees. The Cathedral Peaks viewed from the beginning of the trail were still snow capped. I noticed the evening before driving in that some moron made the decision to place three ugly green plastic port-a-potties right on Tioga Road at the Cathedral Lakes trailhead! Ugly. Well, they weren’t visible from our delightful hike on the Glen Aulin Trail. We soon came upon what would normally be a little nearly dry drainage that had turned into a gushing creek that we had to navigate across on logs and rocks. This was the first of three rushing creeks we had to cross. We heard many Hermit Thrushes singing as we made our way across the many waterways on the trail which was lined with Groundsel. We saw few people before arriving at Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp at five miles from the trailhead. Normally we would have crossed the suspension bridge at Le Conte Falls and used the backpackers toilet but the trail was flooded by the gushing waterfall and we had to scramble over the rocks and skipped it. Then we began our descent to the famous Waterwheel Falls. Along the trail we heard many Hermit Thrushes singing. I have hiked this trail maybe a dozen times and I always thought that the first waterfall you come to after Glen Aulin was Waterwheel where I normally stop for lunch. Well, I am embarrassed to say that it is actually another mile downstream from there down another 1000 feet or so! The water level was the highest I have ever seen it and it was impossible to get to the island where I have had lunch in the past in the middle of the Tuolumne River. Before the first fall the trail flattens out and follows along the river. I have seen MacGillivray’s Warblers here in the past but only saw Yellow-rumped Warblers this trip. There was a large seasonal waterfall on the high canyon walls that completely flooded the trail for a half a mile. We had to bushwhack over fallen logs and soggy meadow to make it to the brink of the falls. We stopped at the first falls for lunch.

After lunch we decided to proceed further. We passed some backpackers who let us know that the Waterwheel wasn’t much further and that’s when I realized my mistake of hikes’ past. We started to pass a large group of huffing and puffing day hikers probably staying at Glen Aulin and out for the 3.3. mile hike from Glen Aulin to Waterwheel. The intensity of the rushing water increased as we dropped down to the next level of the falls. It had three parts—the one I normally thought of as the falls and then a second fall that smashed down on some rocks shooting water up into the air that could have easily been waterwheel and then a third and final part that broke upon the rocks thrusting water up 30 feet into the air and wetting the canyon walls. As we stopped to admire the falls, Susan spotted a Peregrine Falcon flying past. Here you enter the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne and if you continue you can go all the way to Hetch Hetchy and on into the tap in my kitchen sink because this is the water source for San Francisco via the controversial Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. We went as far as the third part what is probably considered the actual Waterwheel Fall and then turned back for our long hike back out of the canyon. We returned the way we came enjoying the gushing wild and scenic Tuolumne River all the way back to Tuolumne Meadows, 17.5 miles round trip. About halfway back we saw a Rufous Hummingbird on the trail. After our long hike we returned to our camp site and decided to just camp there another night.

In the morning of July 1 we packed while Green-tailed Towhees and Brewer’s Sparrows serenaded us and then we moved to the free camping at Mono Craters in the Mono Basin Scenic Area. There is a dirt road where primitive camping is allowed but when we arrived we were surprised to find a group already camping near our usual spot. No matter because we couldn’t hear them and they didn’t bother us at all. We camped here the next two blissful nights in an area that burned in 2000. After setting up the tent Susan went for a run on Highway 395 and I walked around the burned out area for an hour looking for Black-backed Woodpeckers. I only saw Hairy Woodpeckers and a few Flickers and Downy Woodpeckers. I picked Susan up on the highway and we drove to the Hoover Wilderness for a hike to Burro Pass on the Virginia Lakes Trail. After passing Blue Lake we immediately ran into a large snowbank. The snow fields continued all the way up to Burro Pass becoming increasingly large and the trail was full of overflowing streams that were difficult to cross without getting our feet wet. Not much was blooming on the trail but the colorful peaks partially covered in snow were beautifully reflected in the three lakes you pass on your way up to the Burro Pass. Sometimes the trail was difficult to follow but we just continued going up until we came to our last large snowfield. After crossing the last snow field, we came upon an amazing wildflower display. These wildflowers were short as a defense against the strong winds at this high elevation, over 10,000 feet. There were Stonecrop, several types of eriogonum, Roseroot, and some other low lying flowers blooming. We walked a little below the pass for an outstanding view to Summit Lake far below framed by beautiful snow covered peaks of the gateway to the North Boundary of Yosemite. After soaking in the incredible views we turned around and picked our way back through the snow covered and flooded trail back to the trailhead 6.6 miles round trip. This trail is beautiful and outstanding but there were way too many dogs, which are unfortunately allowed on national forest trails.

After our Viriginia Lakes Trail hike we stopped by Mono County Park and walked the board walk to the edge of Mono Lake. There was a flock of Wilson’s Phalaropes, California Gulls, and a few Canada Geese in the lake and there were many Yellow Warblers and Violet-green Swallows along the boardwalk and a Red-breasted Sapsucker in the Cottonwoods. We had intended to have dinner at the picnic area there but the picnic tables were occupied so we drove on to the next lake access which has three picnic tables. The only unoccupied one was at the edge of the parking area. We made our dinner and tried to enjoy the lake views but every five minutes someone would drive up and start feeding the California Gulls. One Russian couple encouraged their children to throw bread at them until their children were in a circle with California Gulls in the parking area so Dad could get a photo. It was so pitiful. One Chinese couple got out and the son loudly insisted that they were Herring Gulls. The activity was making me so anxious; we hurriedly finished our dinner and left. Next we stopped at South Tufa Area where we had planned to have a beer and watch the sunset. Unfortunately the wind picked up and we had to return to our camp area. There was much less wind in our forest protected camp site. So we settled down there. At dusk a flock of Pinyon Jays flew past our camp. In the middle of the night I woke up and heard two Great Horned Owls calling to each other.

July 3, we got up at 6:00 AM, had breakfast in our exclusive campsite, watched the flock of Pinyon Jays pass through again, and then headed off for our planned hike to the incomparable Lundy Canyon in Inyo National Forest. We were surprised that there was only one car at the trailhead. Just before starting our hike we saw a Calliope Hummingbird in the parking area. Immediately upon starting the trail we were greeted with many wildflowers—Mariposa Lily, Mules Ears, Columbine, and lots of Stickseed. Soon we were crossing more overflowing creeks before reaching the beaver dam lake which was surrounded by Monkshood, blue penstemmon, and Indian Paintbrush. Some Tree Swallows were skimming the lake. We continued up the canyon and into a Quaking Aspen grove where Warbling Vireos and Fox Sparrows were singing and Chinquipin was growing along the trail. Immediately past the aspen grove the trail became a swamp. We managed to hike around it in the thick brush and the canyon opened up to yet more flowers, stickseed, lupine, columbine, gilia, groundsel, and others. As the trail began to climb out of the canyon we encountered more snow banks to cross. The three waterfalls in the canyon were overflowing their brims but the best one was up canyon just below Helen Lake out destination 2000 feet above. The last bit of trail to Helen Lake switchbacks up a very loose shale slope. The trail was partially covered in snow so we stayed close to the waterfall but it was frightening to be so close to such a precipitous drop that we moved back over the shale toward the center as we proceeded up hill. Clinging to the rocks were bunches of White heather and more Blue columbine. The waterfall was partially submerged in a huge snow field. Near the crest we saw some Gray-crowned Rosy Finches. Finally we crested the dangerous slope, crossed yet another snow field, and finally ended at partially frozen Helen Lake where we saw a few Spotted Sandpipers in the lake. The multi-colored mountains were reflected in the lake and we gorged our eyes on the beautiful sight until the wind drove us back down the mountain. We returned the way we came enjoying the wildflowers again on the way back and discovering some more we had missed. At the beaver dam we found a Red-breasted Sapsucker and two American Dippers fishing for food in the lake. After our hike we stopped at one of the national forest picnic areas in the canyon and read books and had our dinner next to a babbling brook. Then we returned to our secluded campsite to watch the sunset with a small crescent moon overhead. Some Common Nighthawks were hawking for food in the burned area and then some bats started to fly about. We slept soundly except when we were awoken by two hooting owls near dawn.

In the morning the Pinyon Jays passed through again and then we packed our gear and drove back up Tioga Road through Tuolumne Meadows all the way to the Porcupine Trail. The trail starts out through a dark forest dominated by Red Fir. I wasn’t expecting much in the bird department due to the lack of diversity. There were no burnt trees around so I was shocked when we found two of the elusive Black-backed Woodpeckers pecking away on a fir tree very close to the trail. This was only the second Black-backed Woodpecker I have ever seen so I was thrilled to find it in such an unexpected place. There were more streams to cross before the trail opened up for fantastic views into Yosemite Valley. Near the end of the trail it drops down about 1000 feet to North Dome with up close and personal views of Half Dome, Cloud’s Rest, Cathedral Rocks, and the valley below. Despite being an entirely granite rock it was covered with small wildflowers such as Stonecrop and Mousetail. After enjoying the views we turned back for the hike out. We heard some Pine Siskins in the trees and a Spotted Towhee and then were delighted to find as our last bird of the day a Nashville Warbler. We were surprised to pass several Snow Plants that we hadn’t noticed on the way out. Then it was time to leave the wonderful world of Yosemite National Park and Mono Basin.

Pied-billed Grebe
Canada Goose
Mallard
American Kestrel
Peregrine Falcon
Killdeer
Spotted Sandpiper
Wilson’s Phalarope
California Gull
Mourning Dove
Great Horned Owl
Common Nighthawk
Poorwill
White-throated Swift
Calliope Hummingbird
Rufous Hummingbird
Red-breasted Sapsucker
Downy Woodpecker
Hairy Woodpecker
Black-backed Woodpecker
Northern Flicker
Olive-sided Flycatcher
Western Wood-peewee
Hammond’s Flycatcher
Dusky Flycatcher
Ash-throated Flycatcher
Tree Swallow
Violet-green Swallow
Cliff Swallow
Steller’s Jay
Pinyon Jay
Clark’s Nutcracker
Black-billed Magpie
Common Raven
Mountain Chickadee
Red-breasted Nuthatch
White-breasted Nuthatch
Pygmy Nuthatch
Brown Creeper
Rock Wren
House Wren
American Dipper
Golden-crowned Kinglet
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Mountain Bluebird
Townsend’s Solitaire
Hermit Thrush
American Robin
Sage Thrasher
European Starling
Warbling Vireo
Nashville Warbler
Common Yellowthroat
Wilson’s Warbler
Yellow Warbler
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Western Tanager
Lazuli Bunting
Green-tailed Towhee
Spotted Towhee
Chipping Sparrow
Brewer’s Sparrow
Fox Sparrow
Song Sparrow
White-crowned Sparrow
Dark-eyed Junco
Red-winged Blackbird
Western Meadowlark
Brewer’s Blackbird
Brown-headed Cowbird
Bullock’s Oriole
Gray-crowned Rosy Finch
Cassin’s Finch
Red Crossbill
Pine Siskin
Lesser Goldfinch