Every fall thousands of ducks and geese either come to California's Central Valley to winter or pass through on the Pacific Flyway, the major west coast migratory route. Early December is time for my annual pilgrimage to see this amazing spectacle.
I got a late start on Saturday which was fine because by the time I arrived at the Colusa National Wildlife Refuge in Colusa, CA the sun had warmed things up a bit. It can get very chilly in the Central Valley in winter. I stopped in Dunigan to get some gas and while pumping spotted a Ferruginous Hawk circling overhead. That was a good find as they are only seen a few times per season. Indeed it was the only one I saw the entire weekend. Normally I would have driven all the way to the much more well known and well regarded Sacramento NWR but due to the late start (it was 11:00 AM by the time I got to Colusa) I pulled into the closer Colusa NWR instead. I first walked the Wetlands Nature Trail where I accidentally flushed a Barn Owl that nearly flew into my head. It scared the crap out of me. A Nuttall's Woodpecker was working the trees and there were tons of Yellow-rumped Warblers, Ruby-crowned Kinglets, Bushtits, Northern Flickers, and Western Scrub-Jays. Raptors were everywhere. On the drive in from Highway 20 there were American Kestrels and Red-tailed Hawks. On the entrance road there was a Northern Harrier and a White-tailed Kite and there were many Turkey Vultures just about everywhere. A Great Horned Owl was perched in a tree near the nature trail. Back at the car I had my lunch before taking the auto tour. While I ate I noticed that while there were hundreds if not thousands of Greater White-fronted Geese flying over in enormous flocks, I had not seen any of the usually prolific Snow Geese. In the marsh were Marsh Wren, Bewick's Wren, two Greater Yellowlegs, a couple of Black-necked Stilts, and many Killdeer. A couple of Black-tailed Deer were at the margins of the marsh. I started on the tour where I saw hundreds of Gadwall, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Cinnamon Teal, Mallard, American Wigeon, and American Coot. I noticed a fast flying falcon and got out to get some video when I accidentally flushed an American Bittern. The falcon turned out to be the only Merlin of the weekend. When I came to the bridge I saw dozens of Black-crowned Night-Herons in the canal and one Common Moorhen quickly ducking out of sight. Huge flocks of Red-winged Blackbirds swirled around and I picked out at least one Tricolored Blackbird in the flock. About that time a flock of Cackling Geese flew over. As I proceeded on the auto tour I came into huge flocks of Snow Geese. While picking through them looking for Ross's Geese I found a few White-faced Ibis's. There were also some Herring Gulls in with all the ducks and geese. I found quite a few Ross's Geese and while searching the flocks came across one Eurasian Wigeon. Back on the entrance drive I came across a Loggerhead Shrike before turning back onto Hwy 20.
Next I headed east on 20 to Highway 99 north up to Gray Lodge Wildlife Area. It was getting late and I only had about two hours of sunlight so I walked the Wetlands Trail and then the hiking trail that leaves from the south end of the parking area and had no time for the auto tour. I figured with all the great birds I had seen at Colusa I probably wasn't going to add anything to my list for the weekend anyway. There were dozens of Common Moorhens on the nature trail and I found one Fox Sparrow, one Nuttall's Woodpecker and then many of the same birds as I had seen at Colusa. On the hiking trail I found a Cooper's Hawk hiding in a tree and there were a few Ring-necked Ducks in the water. Hundreds and hundreds of White-faced Ibises continuously flew overhead. As the sun began to sink in the west I heard a Great Horned Owl hooting. As I walked along somethign spooked the geese and a flock of perhaps thousands of Snow Geese took off into the airways in en masse. To see his gaggling, cackling mass of our feathered friends frenetically flying up into the skies is one of the greatest sights of nature to behold. When it was too dark to bird I left and drove to Sacramento for the evening.
Sunday morning I drove from Sacramento to the Vic Fazio Yolo Wildlife Area, an Important Bird Area. It was windy and cold and there were lots of people, birders and hunters. I got out at the first parking lot and studied the ducks. In with the Cinnamon Teals were three Blue-winged Teals, an uncommon sight for California. Hundreds of Tundra Swans were flying in huge v's overhead but I saw no Snow Geese at all. I walked the hiking trail where I saw lots of Savannah Sparrows and American Pipits and one Wilson's Snipe. A flock of dark geese flew over and I got them in my scope. They were "Aleutian" Cackling Geese, a sub species of Cackling Geese that winter in the Central Valley. One lone Long-billed Curlew flew past. On the auto tour the only shorebirds I saw were two Dunlins, a couple of Least Sandpipers, two Greater Yellowlegs, and another Curlew. There were more Harriers, Red-tailed Hawks, and one White-tailed Kite and just before I left one Red-shouldered Hawk perched on some tall reeds.
I drove up I-80 to where it splits into Highway 50 and took that to Watts Avenue where I had hoped to check some spots on the American River. Watts Avenue was closed due to the marathon and I was stuck in some bad traffic so I just turned right at the first intersection, American River Parkway until it ended at Arden Way where I was so lucky to find the William Pond Recreation Area, formerly Arden Bar. This is a very scenic park. I parked at the end and started walking. The trail followed along the American River for a mile or so. As I walked along it finally began to warm up. I looked into the river and was surprised to see six Wood Ducks. There were at least a half dozen Great Blue Herons, some Canada Geese, and one Mute Swan (most likely an escapee). As I walked along I noticed a huge flock of gulls on the river. It was mostly California Gulls but there were also a couple of Herring Gulls and I could have sworn I saw a Glaucous-winged Gull too. I also spotted a few Common Goldeneyes and one lone Common Merganser. An Osprey was patrolling the river for fish and a Downy Woodpecker was pecking the sycamores that lined the river. As I walked back toward the parking area I flushed a Green Heron. Then it was time to return to the Bay Area.
Sunday, December 02, 2007
Monday, November 26, 2007
Thanksgiving in Utah: November 22-25, 2007
Thanksgiving Day we drove straight from Salt Lake City Airport north 50 miles to the Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge. I was disappointed in the low numbers of waterfowl there. However, straight away we saw a Rough-legged Hawk flying and then perched in a dry field. I could hear Sandhill Cranes creaking and then saw a flock of about 40 or so circling overhead. In the areas with water there were many American Coots, a few American Wigeons, Gadwalls, Northern Shovelers, Pied-billed Grebes, Eared Grebes, and many Ring-billed Gulls. A few Bonaparte's Gulls were also fishing in the river. Toward the end of the auto tour we came across a few Tundra Swans and some Canada Geese. A Ring-necked Pheasant shot across the road no doubt avoiding all the hunters. Just before leaving the refuge we spotted a Northern Shrike on a post. Back out on I-15 we saw a Ferruginous Hawk flying over a vacant field.
Next we stopped in at Farmington Bay WMA. What we really wanted to do was to visit Antelope Island on the Great Salt Lake but it is closed on Thanksgiving. There were a lot more birds at Farmington Bay including three more Rough-legged Hawks including one locked in a battle with a Northern Harrier, We also saw more Sandhill Cranes, another Belted Kingfisher, Mallard, and one Common Merganser. We were getting hungry so we abandoned plans to find some Bohemian Waxwings which have been having an irruption in Utah lately, and headed over to Fred Meyer to get groceries. Then it was time for the grueling drive down to Calf Creek Falls in Escalante. We did not arrive until 8:30 PM but were surprised to be the only campers there. We had a nice bottle of cabernet we had brought from California to go with our makeshift Thanksgiving Day feast next to a cozy fire before falling fast asleep.
I awoke to a muffled sound outside the tent and thought a deer was browsing. I unzipped the tent and pulled it back to find snow covering the ground. It was still snowing lightly when we got up and had breakfast.
We drove from our campsite, where three Wild Turkeys were foraging, to the Burr Trail and then cut over onto Moody Canyon Road both of which were snow covered. At the cattle gate we came across a flock of 35 Black Rosy-finches, a bird I have never seen before. I got out to get some video but they flew away just as I turned on my camera and we were unable to relocate them so we continued on. Where the road entered the creek bed we parked and began walking into Moody Canyon. There were hundreds of Dark-eyed Juncos in the canyon but little else other than a Red-naped Sapsucker. The canyon began to narrow as it neared the Escalante River but we were running out of time and had to return to the car. Back out on the Burr Trail we watched the sun cast a red glow on the hills as the moon rose.
Saturday we drove from camp 16 miles down the Hole-in-the-Rock Road to Harris Wash. We parked and started down the wash. There were hundreds of Dark-eyed Juncos but also a few Spotted Towhees, Northern Flicker, Downy Woodpecker, Common Raven, American Goldfinches, Song Sparrow, and a few White-crowned Sparrows. A flock of Cedar Waxwings flew over and away. Near the gateway we came across two Great Horned Owls. We passed through the gateway and entered an enchanting canyon with 3000 foot high red walls lined with desert varnish. In the canyon wall I found a Northern Goshawk nest but it was vacant and we did not see it on this trip. We had to turn around just where the canyon was becoming most interesting. We left Hole-in-the-Rock Road and pulled into a scenic pull out on Highway 12 to watch the full moon rise over the Henry Mountains. That night I heard another Great Horned Owl hooting.
Sunday we packed up our things and drove Highway 12 to Capital Reef National Park. On the way we saw a Red-tailed Hawk and a Black-billed Magpie. We hiked up to Hickman Bridge and then to the Rim Overlook. The only birds here were some Mountain Chickadees and a few Juniper Titmouses. We did not have time to make it to Navajo Knobs as we had originally planned. Maybe next year. On the way back to Salt Lake City we saw two adult Bald Eagles in a tree in Fremont, UT. We didn't see any rare birds like we did last year but I added a life bird, Black Rosy-finch, and the scenery and solitude were sublime.
Next we stopped in at Farmington Bay WMA. What we really wanted to do was to visit Antelope Island on the Great Salt Lake but it is closed on Thanksgiving. There were a lot more birds at Farmington Bay including three more Rough-legged Hawks including one locked in a battle with a Northern Harrier, We also saw more Sandhill Cranes, another Belted Kingfisher, Mallard, and one Common Merganser. We were getting hungry so we abandoned plans to find some Bohemian Waxwings which have been having an irruption in Utah lately, and headed over to Fred Meyer to get groceries. Then it was time for the grueling drive down to Calf Creek Falls in Escalante. We did not arrive until 8:30 PM but were surprised to be the only campers there. We had a nice bottle of cabernet we had brought from California to go with our makeshift Thanksgiving Day feast next to a cozy fire before falling fast asleep.
I awoke to a muffled sound outside the tent and thought a deer was browsing. I unzipped the tent and pulled it back to find snow covering the ground. It was still snowing lightly when we got up and had breakfast.
We drove from our campsite, where three Wild Turkeys were foraging, to the Burr Trail and then cut over onto Moody Canyon Road both of which were snow covered. At the cattle gate we came across a flock of 35 Black Rosy-finches, a bird I have never seen before. I got out to get some video but they flew away just as I turned on my camera and we were unable to relocate them so we continued on. Where the road entered the creek bed we parked and began walking into Moody Canyon. There were hundreds of Dark-eyed Juncos in the canyon but little else other than a Red-naped Sapsucker. The canyon began to narrow as it neared the Escalante River but we were running out of time and had to return to the car. Back out on the Burr Trail we watched the sun cast a red glow on the hills as the moon rose.
Saturday we drove from camp 16 miles down the Hole-in-the-Rock Road to Harris Wash. We parked and started down the wash. There were hundreds of Dark-eyed Juncos but also a few Spotted Towhees, Northern Flicker, Downy Woodpecker, Common Raven, American Goldfinches, Song Sparrow, and a few White-crowned Sparrows. A flock of Cedar Waxwings flew over and away. Near the gateway we came across two Great Horned Owls. We passed through the gateway and entered an enchanting canyon with 3000 foot high red walls lined with desert varnish. In the canyon wall I found a Northern Goshawk nest but it was vacant and we did not see it on this trip. We had to turn around just where the canyon was becoming most interesting. We left Hole-in-the-Rock Road and pulled into a scenic pull out on Highway 12 to watch the full moon rise over the Henry Mountains. That night I heard another Great Horned Owl hooting.
Sunday we packed up our things and drove Highway 12 to Capital Reef National Park. On the way we saw a Red-tailed Hawk and a Black-billed Magpie. We hiked up to Hickman Bridge and then to the Rim Overlook. The only birds here were some Mountain Chickadees and a few Juniper Titmouses. We did not have time to make it to Navajo Knobs as we had originally planned. Maybe next year. On the way back to Salt Lake City we saw two adult Bald Eagles in a tree in Fremont, UT. We didn't see any rare birds like we did last year but I added a life bird, Black Rosy-finch, and the scenery and solitude were sublime.
Monday, October 08, 2007
San Mateo County Big Day: 10/7/07
San Mateo County, CA: 10/7/07
Every year the Point Reyes Bid Observatory holds a bird-a-thon to raise money for its important work on bird research and conservation. Teams of people try to see as many species of birds as possible in a 24 hour period soliciting donors for each species seen. Our group, Jennifer Rycenga, Garth Harwood, and I, would attempt to see as many species as possible in San Mateo County on October 7, 2007. We met at Jennifer’s house in Half Moon Bay at 3:30 AM. It was extremely cold just 36 degrees as we headed out into the cold dark night looking for owls. We were very successful with the owls immediately finding a Barn Owl near Jennifer’s house. We pulled off of Highway 1 onto Verde Road and pulled up to an invisible pond where a Virginia Rail responded immediately to my Sora imitation. It never fails! That set off a Coot and Mallard as well. We drove down Higgins-Purissima Road but couldn’t coax out a Great Horned Owl. So we went over to Butano State Park to try for Western Screech-owl. Someone was again camping in the no camping area so I didn’t feel bad about making noise at that ungodly hour until Garth pointed out that the ranger probably told them to camp there as overflow since the campground was full. If I had been that camper I would have been furious. Even though we tried to be quiet I’m sure it was distressing the poor camper who had to hear us play screech owl tapes and chat in low tones about mysterious noises in the night. Finally the screech owl answered our tapes; just as we were departing the camper was unzipping his tent to see what all the commotion was about. Outside of the park we pulled off and listened to more strange noises. I pointed out the spectacular formation in the sky of the beautiful crescent moon with Venus and Regulus above and Saturn below. Jennifer got her spotting scope on it and we all checked out the rings on Saturn.
Next we drove Gazos Creek Road where we shivered terribly in the cold night air. Our sacrifices paid off though for not only did we hear a Northern Saw-whet Owl but amazingly Garth detected the faint hoots of a Long-eared Owl and then a Northern Pygmy Owl. We congratulated ourselves on our owl success and talked about how great it would be if we could also get the Short-eared Owl for a clean sweep of San Mateo County owls but it wasn’t to be. It was so cold we were all relieved to get back in the heated car for the drive over to Pigeon Point. Our timing was flawless as we got out to the viewing deck just as the sun was coming up in the east. The sea was calm but we had no luck with alcids at all. However, we were so lucky to get on a Parasitic Jaeger and then a Pomarine Jaeger. We were upset at having missed the alcids but decided to go directly to Pescadero for land birds. Garth showed us a field good for sparrows. Some dead beats in an AT&T truck watched us warily. An interesting sparrow popped up briefly that I am convinced was a Brewer’s Sparrow but it would not turn adequately to confirm the facial pattern and we never could see it again. Pine Siskins were in a willow tree nearby and Lincoln’s Sparrows were plentiful. Back on Pescadero Road we stopped at the intersection with Highway 1 as Jennifer believed we could get a gnatcatcher there. No gnatcatcher graced us with its presence but Garth honed in on the biggest surprise of the day, a Grasshopper Sparrow. I didn’t get the greatest look but it was the closest match. We scoped the beach and marsh at Pescadero State Beach but came up empty. So we parked illegally on Highway 1 scanning the marsh next to the makeshift gravemarker while Jennifer avoided a collision. I spotted a Blue-winged Teal in between two Green-winged Teals. Next we debated whether we should make another try for alcids at Bean Hollow State Beach where I had seen them regularly in September or continue on for land birds. We decided to continue on and went next to Memorial Park on Pescadero Road. We couldn’t find the target bird from the bridge but after a short walk in we found two resident American Dippers. I brought a big bag of snacks for everyone in order to discourage Jennifer from her nasty habit of stopping at MacDonalds on Big Days. It worked! She stopped and bought some tasty smelling artichoke bread from the Pescadero Market instead and snacked on my healthy snacks in between.
It was time to get over to the bay side of the county for land birds and shore birds. Unfortunately this is not so easy from Half Moon Bay because October is pumpkin picking time in HMB and hordes of people clog the only thorough fare from Highway 1 which skirts the ocean to the Bayside, Highway 92. There was a tense moment in the car as Garth became impatient with a hideous traffic snag and insisted we turn around and try Sharp Park in Pacifica. Jennifer held her ground and was insistent; we waited for the pumpkin pickers to clear out and eventually made it half way up Highway 92 to our destination, the cemetary, where we saw lots of Yellow-rumped Warblers and another big surprise, a Chipping Sparrow, a tough bird in San Mateo County. The traffic wasn't so bad on the other side of the hill as we headed down to Highway 101 for our next stop at Coyote Point on the San Francisco Bay. Few passerines were in the trees but we picked up lots of shorebirds and added an early Lesser Scaup to our list. From Coyote Point we drove to Redwood City for the famous Radio Road extravaganza. There were hundreds of ducks on the pond at the end of the road and our only rarity of the day, a Pectoral Sandpiper. On the way back out of Redwood City we stopped at another strange pond behind the Nob Hill Supermarket where Garth found a Green Heron. We could not locate the Redhead that had been seen earlier in the week and time was running out so we left. Jennifer promised that our next stop would yield four species. We went to the richest area in the county, swanky Atherton, where I joked we were not dressed well enough, to some local park that was full of landscaped areas of non-native plants with intermittent oaks and the curious planted redwood. I was dubious but Jennifer delivered pulling out a flock of promised Cedar Waxwings, two California Thrashers, and two Oak Titmouses. Best of all the bathroom was extremely clean. We left wealthy Atherton for my least favorite place, the impoverished and dangerous, East Palo Alto, where I was once nearly run over by a deranged idiot on a go-cart in the middle of a national wildlife refuge, to the Ravenswood section of the San Francisco Bay NWR. I hate that place. No sooner were we out of the car than I was standing in a pile of trash looking at a torn out fence around the Bay and watching yet another moron on a motorcycle riding back from the refuge. Not only was it dangerous and horrible but we weren't seeing much either. Garth spotted a Sora and next a Barn Swallow. We were recluctant to leave nevertheless because we had not scored on our only chance in the county for a Ring-necked Pheasant. I stopped to point out to Jennifer the no motorized vehicles or bicycles sign when boom two Pheasants shot out of the canal and flew right in front of all of us. Then it was over to my rail haunt the Ravenswood Open Space Preserve. Jennifer and Garth thought it was more dangerous than Ravenswood NWR because there were no residences around and thus less witnesses. The wind had picked up considerably and it was once again cold. Not only that but it was low tide and not a rail in sight. We tried mightily but could not get a Clapper Rail to make so much as a peep. Every other time I have been there four, five, six Clapper Rails are not uncommon but no cigar this time. No rails at all revealed themselves. Garth thought that we should await sundown there because he felt sure a Short-eared Owl would show up. As the temperature dropped, the sun sank, and no owls appeared we threw in the towel and ended the day with a disappointing 136 species.
By: Michelle Brodie
10/8/07
Every year the Point Reyes Bid Observatory holds a bird-a-thon to raise money for its important work on bird research and conservation. Teams of people try to see as many species of birds as possible in a 24 hour period soliciting donors for each species seen. Our group, Jennifer Rycenga, Garth Harwood, and I, would attempt to see as many species as possible in San Mateo County on October 7, 2007. We met at Jennifer’s house in Half Moon Bay at 3:30 AM. It was extremely cold just 36 degrees as we headed out into the cold dark night looking for owls. We were very successful with the owls immediately finding a Barn Owl near Jennifer’s house. We pulled off of Highway 1 onto Verde Road and pulled up to an invisible pond where a Virginia Rail responded immediately to my Sora imitation. It never fails! That set off a Coot and Mallard as well. We drove down Higgins-Purissima Road but couldn’t coax out a Great Horned Owl. So we went over to Butano State Park to try for Western Screech-owl. Someone was again camping in the no camping area so I didn’t feel bad about making noise at that ungodly hour until Garth pointed out that the ranger probably told them to camp there as overflow since the campground was full. If I had been that camper I would have been furious. Even though we tried to be quiet I’m sure it was distressing the poor camper who had to hear us play screech owl tapes and chat in low tones about mysterious noises in the night. Finally the screech owl answered our tapes; just as we were departing the camper was unzipping his tent to see what all the commotion was about. Outside of the park we pulled off and listened to more strange noises. I pointed out the spectacular formation in the sky of the beautiful crescent moon with Venus and Regulus above and Saturn below. Jennifer got her spotting scope on it and we all checked out the rings on Saturn.
Next we drove Gazos Creek Road where we shivered terribly in the cold night air. Our sacrifices paid off though for not only did we hear a Northern Saw-whet Owl but amazingly Garth detected the faint hoots of a Long-eared Owl and then a Northern Pygmy Owl. We congratulated ourselves on our owl success and talked about how great it would be if we could also get the Short-eared Owl for a clean sweep of San Mateo County owls but it wasn’t to be. It was so cold we were all relieved to get back in the heated car for the drive over to Pigeon Point. Our timing was flawless as we got out to the viewing deck just as the sun was coming up in the east. The sea was calm but we had no luck with alcids at all. However, we were so lucky to get on a Parasitic Jaeger and then a Pomarine Jaeger. We were upset at having missed the alcids but decided to go directly to Pescadero for land birds. Garth showed us a field good for sparrows. Some dead beats in an AT&T truck watched us warily. An interesting sparrow popped up briefly that I am convinced was a Brewer’s Sparrow but it would not turn adequately to confirm the facial pattern and we never could see it again. Pine Siskins were in a willow tree nearby and Lincoln’s Sparrows were plentiful. Back on Pescadero Road we stopped at the intersection with Highway 1 as Jennifer believed we could get a gnatcatcher there. No gnatcatcher graced us with its presence but Garth honed in on the biggest surprise of the day, a Grasshopper Sparrow. I didn’t get the greatest look but it was the closest match. We scoped the beach and marsh at Pescadero State Beach but came up empty. So we parked illegally on Highway 1 scanning the marsh next to the makeshift gravemarker while Jennifer avoided a collision. I spotted a Blue-winged Teal in between two Green-winged Teals. Next we debated whether we should make another try for alcids at Bean Hollow State Beach where I had seen them regularly in September or continue on for land birds. We decided to continue on and went next to Memorial Park on Pescadero Road. We couldn’t find the target bird from the bridge but after a short walk in we found two resident American Dippers. I brought a big bag of snacks for everyone in order to discourage Jennifer from her nasty habit of stopping at MacDonalds on Big Days. It worked! She stopped and bought some tasty smelling artichoke bread from the Pescadero Market instead and snacked on my healthy snacks in between.
It was time to get over to the bay side of the county for land birds and shore birds. Unfortunately this is not so easy from Half Moon Bay because October is pumpkin picking time in HMB and hordes of people clog the only thorough fare from Highway 1 which skirts the ocean to the Bayside, Highway 92. There was a tense moment in the car as Garth became impatient with a hideous traffic snag and insisted we turn around and try Sharp Park in Pacifica. Jennifer held her ground and was insistent; we waited for the pumpkin pickers to clear out and eventually made it half way up Highway 92 to our destination, the cemetary, where we saw lots of Yellow-rumped Warblers and another big surprise, a Chipping Sparrow, a tough bird in San Mateo County. The traffic wasn't so bad on the other side of the hill as we headed down to Highway 101 for our next stop at Coyote Point on the San Francisco Bay. Few passerines were in the trees but we picked up lots of shorebirds and added an early Lesser Scaup to our list. From Coyote Point we drove to Redwood City for the famous Radio Road extravaganza. There were hundreds of ducks on the pond at the end of the road and our only rarity of the day, a Pectoral Sandpiper. On the way back out of Redwood City we stopped at another strange pond behind the Nob Hill Supermarket where Garth found a Green Heron. We could not locate the Redhead that had been seen earlier in the week and time was running out so we left. Jennifer promised that our next stop would yield four species. We went to the richest area in the county, swanky Atherton, where I joked we were not dressed well enough, to some local park that was full of landscaped areas of non-native plants with intermittent oaks and the curious planted redwood. I was dubious but Jennifer delivered pulling out a flock of promised Cedar Waxwings, two California Thrashers, and two Oak Titmouses. Best of all the bathroom was extremely clean. We left wealthy Atherton for my least favorite place, the impoverished and dangerous, East Palo Alto, where I was once nearly run over by a deranged idiot on a go-cart in the middle of a national wildlife refuge, to the Ravenswood section of the San Francisco Bay NWR. I hate that place. No sooner were we out of the car than I was standing in a pile of trash looking at a torn out fence around the Bay and watching yet another moron on a motorcycle riding back from the refuge. Not only was it dangerous and horrible but we weren't seeing much either. Garth spotted a Sora and next a Barn Swallow. We were recluctant to leave nevertheless because we had not scored on our only chance in the county for a Ring-necked Pheasant. I stopped to point out to Jennifer the no motorized vehicles or bicycles sign when boom two Pheasants shot out of the canal and flew right in front of all of us. Then it was over to my rail haunt the Ravenswood Open Space Preserve. Jennifer and Garth thought it was more dangerous than Ravenswood NWR because there were no residences around and thus less witnesses. The wind had picked up considerably and it was once again cold. Not only that but it was low tide and not a rail in sight. We tried mightily but could not get a Clapper Rail to make so much as a peep. Every other time I have been there four, five, six Clapper Rails are not uncommon but no cigar this time. No rails at all revealed themselves. Garth thought that we should await sundown there because he felt sure a Short-eared Owl would show up. As the temperature dropped, the sun sank, and no owls appeared we threw in the towel and ended the day with a disappointing 136 species.
By: Michelle Brodie
10/8/07
California Sky to Sea: September 22-29, 2007
September 22, 2007: Before picking my family up from the airport I stopped by Fort Funston, an old WWII bunker that is now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. This area is a bluff high above the ocean. Bank Swallows use the cliffs facing the ocean to nest in. The trees topping the bluffs used to provide a safe haven for migrating birds in the fall and rarities showed up there every fall until about five years ago when the National Park Service decided to allow off-leash dogs to roam the area at will. Ever since then the understory has been demolished, the place is overrun with dogs, and few rarities are encountered there these days. But for anyone brave enough to fend off maurading dogs and their crazed owners some surprises await. This particular morning a light rain was falling so I thought maybe some migrants would be resting there looking for a meal before continuing their long migrations further south to Mexico and South America. I immediately came across a medium sized mixed warbler flock that included Townsend’s Warbler, Yellow Warbler, Orange-crowned Warbler, one juvenile MacGillivray’s Warbler, and one vagrant, my first of the fall, a Tennessee Warbler. It was at eye level just feet away but my camera was snuggled safely in the car. After a while an off-leash dog came and began barking and charging me scaring both me and the birds away. I left there and stopped at the old abandoned boat house at Lake Merced to use the facilities. It continued to rain so I parked at the entrance to Harding Park Golf Course and walked the entrance road all the way to the wooden bridge over North Lake Merced through to Lake Merced Boulevard and back to the Harding Park Road not seeing much in the increasing rain. Then I went to the Sam Trans Station next to the airport to look at shorebirds while waiting for their plane to arrive. There were two Blue-winged Teals, which are uncommon in the Bay Area. Then it was time to pick them up.
After picking up Daddy, my sister, Ree, and my niece, Rachel we headed over to the Conservatory of Flowers where they had a display of carnivorous plants. Then we walked around the San Francisco Botanical Garden where we saw Western Tanagers and numerous Anna’s Hummingbirds.
September 23, 2007: We got up early and drove to Yosemite National Park. It was pretty chilly when we stopped in the valley to have a picnic lunch but we warmed up quickly as we walked up the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls. Even my 78 year old father made it to the bridge at the base of the falls. Many White-throated Swifts were circling overhead. The only other birds though were Steller’s Jays, Dark-eyed Juncos, Northern Flickers, and Common Ravens. Ree, Rachel, and I continued to the top of Vernal Falls where we saw a Canyon Wren. Then it was time to head back to the Sunset Cabins at the entrance for dinner.
September 24, 2007:
We got up early and drove Tioga Road. It was very cold, about 28 degrees when we got out at Olmstead Point to see the view into the Valley. Ree, Rachel, and I walked out to the point for a better look. Not much was stirring in that chill. It warmed up as we dropped down into Mono Basin and was actually pleasant when we got out at South Tufa Reserve. We walked down to the water’s edge where I saw a Sage Sparrow, one Vesper Sparrow, many Brewer’s Sparrows, and Sage Thrashers. There were the usual assortment of Red-winged Blackbirds, Brewer’s Blackbirds, and California Gulls, and Eared Grebes. Next we drove to Bodie State Historic Park in Bridgeport, CA. It was still chilly but much warmer than Tioga Road. Nevertheless, there were a lot less birds than last year. I only saw Mountain Bluebird, Say’s Phoebe, Brewer’s Sparrow, and Savannah Sparrow. After enjoying this restored ghost town from the gold rush days we had lunch at the picnic area and then headed over to Mono County Park. There were still some lingering warblers, Townsend’s, Yellow, and Wilson’s. Many Eared Grebes and American Avocets were in the lake in addition to two Blue-winged Teals along with a few Green-winged Teals. Back in the park Rachel had tracked down a Red-breasted Sapsucker in the cottonwoods and I also saw a Western Wood Pewee. Then it was time for the long drive back. We stopped about half way at Yosemite Creek picnic area and had a bar-b-que which resulted in us all smelling like a fire the rest of the trip.
September 25, 2007: We checked out of our lovely accommodations at Sunset Cabins and drove a short distance to Hetch Hetchy. Hetch Hetchy used to be a gorgeous valley that rivaled that of Yosemite Valley until the City of San Francisco convinced Congress to allow it to flood the valley, build a hideous dam, and create an ugly reservoir inside the national park on the Tuolumne River. This reservoir provides drinking water for the City of San Francisco and parts of some adjoining counties. The dam and reservoir are ugly eye sores that must be removed. We must return this national treasure to its natural state. Hetch Hetchy is a much lower elevation than the rest of the park and was quite warm during our short visit. We all walked across the ugly dam reading the City’s lies and propaganda that they have written on exhibits along the dam. Then Ree, Rachel, and I continued on the trail to the completely dry Wampama Falls. There were many Western Scrub-Jays, Spotted Towhees, California Towhees, and Yellow-rumped Warblers. At the falls we saw a Peregrine Falcon. After our walk we stopped at Diamond-O Campground and had a picnic lunch before driving back to San Francisco. When we stopped for gas at the Mobil Station at Highway 395 and Tioga Road, Ree spotted a Least Chipmunk foraging in the grass.
September 27, 2007: We got up super early and drove like mad down Highway 101. We stopped in Soledad at the rest area and while there we saw several Yellow-billed Magpies, a California endemic. We stopped at Moonstone Beach and had lunch. After lunch I scoped the beach and saw a few Parasitic Jaegers and Elegant Terns. Then it was time to drop everyone off for a tour of Hearst Castle while I walked San Simeon State Beach. At the beach there were more Parasitic Jaegers and some Common Murres and along the rocks were Surfbirds, Whimbrel, Black-bellied Plover, Long-billed Curlew, and Black Turnstones. I picked everyone up after the tour and we proceeded north on Highway 1. We stopped not far from San Simeon to admire a pack of Tule Elk. Then we pulled over to look at a big pile of Elephant Seals right on the beach. Proceeding north we next stopped in Big Sur at Pfieffer Big Sur State Park. We walked the nature trail where we saw Acorn Woodpecker, Band-tailed Pigeon, Steller’s Jay, Chestnut-backed Chickadee, Turkey Vulture, and Red-shouldered Hawk. The fog started to roll in ruining the fantastic views we were hoping for in Big Sur but we did stop at Julia Pfieffer Burns State Park to see the waterfall before driving to Monterey where we stayed for the night.
September 28, 2007: We checked out of the Holiday Inn Cannery Row and drove to the Monterey Pier. We had up close looks at a Sea Otter and many California Sea Lions resting at the end of the pier. There were lots of Brandt’s Cormorants and Surf Scoters in the water. As we stood looking into the ocean a Debbie Shearwater Pelagic trip was departing from the harbor. I could hear Debbie on the loud speaker and I watched wistfully as they headed out to sea. Daddy, Ree, and Rachel all suffer from motion sickness so a boat trip was out of the question.
Next we pulled into what I think is one of the prettiest places in California, Pt. Lobos State Reserve. We walked down the water’s edge where we saw some Black Oystercatchers and more Sea otters but not much else. It was overcast and windy, very cold at the water’s edge. We left there and drove to Pacific Grove to look for the Monarch Butterfly tree where thousand congregate in the fall. We found the park but the butterflies had not yet arrived. We also checked a local park, Washington Park where we saw lots of Townsend’s Warblers, Hutton’s Vireo, Pygmy Nuthatch, and Bushtit.
We continued north on Highway 1 stopping at Pigeon Point Lighthouse. Not much was happening there just some Red-throated Loons and one Rhinoceros Auklet. We also stopped at Bean Hollow to look at the Harbor Seals and there were more Black Oystercatchers. Our last stop of the day was the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve in Moss Beach. Luckily it was low tide and so Ree and I were able to see some interesting things in the tide pool like Green Anemone, clams, mussels, nudibranches, dogwinkle, and pink and black limpets. Then it was time to return to San Francisco for my birthday dinner.
September 29, 2007: Before taking everyone back to the airport for their flights back home we went to the downtown farmer’s market. I looked around Ferry Park and saw only a few Yellow Warblers and Western Tanagers. Then we walked to the top of Bernal Hill for the view on this clear sunny day and saw American Kestrel and Turkey Vulture. I dropped everyone off and then Susan and I headed back to Tioga Road for a meeting the next day in Mono County.
Epilogue: September 30, 2007: Heard a Great Horned Owl when we got up. We walked up the Virginia Lakes Trail before our meeting and were pleased to find an accommodating bright male Pine Grosbeak and later a female as well. There were several Clark’s Nutcrackers and the ubiquitous Mountain Chickadees.
By: Michelle Brodie
10/8/07
After picking up Daddy, my sister, Ree, and my niece, Rachel we headed over to the Conservatory of Flowers where they had a display of carnivorous plants. Then we walked around the San Francisco Botanical Garden where we saw Western Tanagers and numerous Anna’s Hummingbirds.
September 23, 2007: We got up early and drove to Yosemite National Park. It was pretty chilly when we stopped in the valley to have a picnic lunch but we warmed up quickly as we walked up the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls. Even my 78 year old father made it to the bridge at the base of the falls. Many White-throated Swifts were circling overhead. The only other birds though were Steller’s Jays, Dark-eyed Juncos, Northern Flickers, and Common Ravens. Ree, Rachel, and I continued to the top of Vernal Falls where we saw a Canyon Wren. Then it was time to head back to the Sunset Cabins at the entrance for dinner.
September 24, 2007:
We got up early and drove Tioga Road. It was very cold, about 28 degrees when we got out at Olmstead Point to see the view into the Valley. Ree, Rachel, and I walked out to the point for a better look. Not much was stirring in that chill. It warmed up as we dropped down into Mono Basin and was actually pleasant when we got out at South Tufa Reserve. We walked down to the water’s edge where I saw a Sage Sparrow, one Vesper Sparrow, many Brewer’s Sparrows, and Sage Thrashers. There were the usual assortment of Red-winged Blackbirds, Brewer’s Blackbirds, and California Gulls, and Eared Grebes. Next we drove to Bodie State Historic Park in Bridgeport, CA. It was still chilly but much warmer than Tioga Road. Nevertheless, there were a lot less birds than last year. I only saw Mountain Bluebird, Say’s Phoebe, Brewer’s Sparrow, and Savannah Sparrow. After enjoying this restored ghost town from the gold rush days we had lunch at the picnic area and then headed over to Mono County Park. There were still some lingering warblers, Townsend’s, Yellow, and Wilson’s. Many Eared Grebes and American Avocets were in the lake in addition to two Blue-winged Teals along with a few Green-winged Teals. Back in the park Rachel had tracked down a Red-breasted Sapsucker in the cottonwoods and I also saw a Western Wood Pewee. Then it was time for the long drive back. We stopped about half way at Yosemite Creek picnic area and had a bar-b-que which resulted in us all smelling like a fire the rest of the trip.
September 25, 2007: We checked out of our lovely accommodations at Sunset Cabins and drove a short distance to Hetch Hetchy. Hetch Hetchy used to be a gorgeous valley that rivaled that of Yosemite Valley until the City of San Francisco convinced Congress to allow it to flood the valley, build a hideous dam, and create an ugly reservoir inside the national park on the Tuolumne River. This reservoir provides drinking water for the City of San Francisco and parts of some adjoining counties. The dam and reservoir are ugly eye sores that must be removed. We must return this national treasure to its natural state. Hetch Hetchy is a much lower elevation than the rest of the park and was quite warm during our short visit. We all walked across the ugly dam reading the City’s lies and propaganda that they have written on exhibits along the dam. Then Ree, Rachel, and I continued on the trail to the completely dry Wampama Falls. There were many Western Scrub-Jays, Spotted Towhees, California Towhees, and Yellow-rumped Warblers. At the falls we saw a Peregrine Falcon. After our walk we stopped at Diamond-O Campground and had a picnic lunch before driving back to San Francisco. When we stopped for gas at the Mobil Station at Highway 395 and Tioga Road, Ree spotted a Least Chipmunk foraging in the grass.
September 27, 2007: We got up super early and drove like mad down Highway 101. We stopped in Soledad at the rest area and while there we saw several Yellow-billed Magpies, a California endemic. We stopped at Moonstone Beach and had lunch. After lunch I scoped the beach and saw a few Parasitic Jaegers and Elegant Terns. Then it was time to drop everyone off for a tour of Hearst Castle while I walked San Simeon State Beach. At the beach there were more Parasitic Jaegers and some Common Murres and along the rocks were Surfbirds, Whimbrel, Black-bellied Plover, Long-billed Curlew, and Black Turnstones. I picked everyone up after the tour and we proceeded north on Highway 1. We stopped not far from San Simeon to admire a pack of Tule Elk. Then we pulled over to look at a big pile of Elephant Seals right on the beach. Proceeding north we next stopped in Big Sur at Pfieffer Big Sur State Park. We walked the nature trail where we saw Acorn Woodpecker, Band-tailed Pigeon, Steller’s Jay, Chestnut-backed Chickadee, Turkey Vulture, and Red-shouldered Hawk. The fog started to roll in ruining the fantastic views we were hoping for in Big Sur but we did stop at Julia Pfieffer Burns State Park to see the waterfall before driving to Monterey where we stayed for the night.
September 28, 2007: We checked out of the Holiday Inn Cannery Row and drove to the Monterey Pier. We had up close looks at a Sea Otter and many California Sea Lions resting at the end of the pier. There were lots of Brandt’s Cormorants and Surf Scoters in the water. As we stood looking into the ocean a Debbie Shearwater Pelagic trip was departing from the harbor. I could hear Debbie on the loud speaker and I watched wistfully as they headed out to sea. Daddy, Ree, and Rachel all suffer from motion sickness so a boat trip was out of the question.
Next we pulled into what I think is one of the prettiest places in California, Pt. Lobos State Reserve. We walked down the water’s edge where we saw some Black Oystercatchers and more Sea otters but not much else. It was overcast and windy, very cold at the water’s edge. We left there and drove to Pacific Grove to look for the Monarch Butterfly tree where thousand congregate in the fall. We found the park but the butterflies had not yet arrived. We also checked a local park, Washington Park where we saw lots of Townsend’s Warblers, Hutton’s Vireo, Pygmy Nuthatch, and Bushtit.
We continued north on Highway 1 stopping at Pigeon Point Lighthouse. Not much was happening there just some Red-throated Loons and one Rhinoceros Auklet. We also stopped at Bean Hollow to look at the Harbor Seals and there were more Black Oystercatchers. Our last stop of the day was the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve in Moss Beach. Luckily it was low tide and so Ree and I were able to see some interesting things in the tide pool like Green Anemone, clams, mussels, nudibranches, dogwinkle, and pink and black limpets. Then it was time to return to San Francisco for my birthday dinner.
September 29, 2007: Before taking everyone back to the airport for their flights back home we went to the downtown farmer’s market. I looked around Ferry Park and saw only a few Yellow Warblers and Western Tanagers. Then we walked to the top of Bernal Hill for the view on this clear sunny day and saw American Kestrel and Turkey Vulture. I dropped everyone off and then Susan and I headed back to Tioga Road for a meeting the next day in Mono County.
Epilogue: September 30, 2007: Heard a Great Horned Owl when we got up. We walked up the Virginia Lakes Trail before our meeting and were pleased to find an accommodating bright male Pine Grosbeak and later a female as well. There were several Clark’s Nutcrackers and the ubiquitous Mountain Chickadees.
By: Michelle Brodie
10/8/07
Wednesday, September 05, 2007
California's Central Coast: August 31-September 3, 2007
CENTRAL COAST of CALIFORNIA: August 31-September 3, 2007
Early Friday morning, August 31 I drove down to the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve in Moss Beach, CA for a sea watch. It was pretty foggy all morning but I could still see a lot. There were a few people tidepooling below me but no one else paying the least bit of attention to the sea birds flying past. A few Harbor Seals rested on the rocks off shore. The only gulls I saw were Western Gull, Heerman’s Gull, and California Gull. A steady parade of Elegant Terns flew past heading south with a few fishing just to the north of the preserve where I saw several Parasitic Jaegers harassing them trying to get a free meal by stealing the fish they caught. A couple of Pigeon Guillemots flew south in front of me and from time to time I could just make out a Sooty Shearwater or two flying north low over the water. On the rocks I saw some Black Turnstones, Black Bellied Plover, and Black Oystercatcher. There were quite a few Red-necked Phalaropes flying and sitting on the water and the usual Common Murres and Brandt’s Cormorants. Pelagic Cormorants, and a few Double-crested Cormorants. Around 9:00 AM things started to slow down so I moved on down the coast and inland where the sun had poked through the fog. I took Higgins-Purissima Road in Half Moon Bay to Burleigh-Murray Regional Park where I took a short walk. A Red-shouldered Hawk called loudly from a tree and a Turkey Vulture and Red-tailed Hawk soared overhead. As I arrived at the riparian section I saw Downy Woodpecker, Northern Flicker, and Nuttall’s Woodpecker in the trees. Wrentits sang from the hillsides and one Band-tailed Pigeon flew up the trail ahead of me. The only other birds here were Steller’s Jay, Chestnut-backed Chickadee, White-crowned Sparrow, Song Sparrow, and Hutton’s Vireo. There were several species of butterfly including Anise Swallowtail, Margined White, Cabbage White, Field Crescent, Woodland Skipper, and a Satyr Comma. After my little walk I drove further south to Pescadero Marsh where the tide was coming in fast so that there were few shorebirds to look at. I only saw Surf Scoter, Willet, Marbled Godwit, Red-necked Phalarope in abundance, and Red-breasted Merganser. On the dunes I was surprised to see one Acmon Blue butterfly. I left there and returned home to pick up Susan for our Labor Day camping trip. We drove down to Big Sur and then inland to the Los Padres National Forest where we camped for three nights at Bottchers Gap. Susan spotted a White-tailed Kite along the way. The last time we camped there we heard a Spotted Owl at night; we did not hear a Spotted Owl but the first night as we lay in the tent we heard Northern Saw-whet Owl, Western Screech-owl, and Great Horned Owl. The sky was clear and lots of stars twinkled in the sky along with bright Jupiter.
Saturday morning we got up early and after breakfast headed over to Andrew Molera State Park. We walked all over the park to the Big Sur Ornithology Lab, the Big Sur River, the trail to the campground, and all the way to Molera Point but we saw very few birds. On the trail were a few Wilson’s Warblers and Yellow Warblers and one Hutton’s Vireo. Violet-green Swallows flitted overhead along with a couple of Barn Swallows. There was nothing at all in the campground except a Monarch butterfly and more Woodland Skippers. Past the campground we found a Pacific-slope Flycatcher in the willows, one Spotted Towhee, and a California Towhee. A Northern Harrier was scanning the meadow. Out at the point we saw a Peregrine Falcon perched on a rock at the water’s edge where it stayed for the entire time we were there. California Quail were in the trees but there was practically nothing to look at in the ocean except Brandt’s Cormorant and Surf Scoter. There was one Fiery Skipper at the point. Around the campground Susan found a Common Buckeye and there were a few Common Ringlets and Mylitta and Field Crescents. Back at the parking area we had our lunch at the picnic area where we saw a Lorquin’s Admiral going repeatedly to a willow tree by the river and a few California Sisters and some Whites chasing both of them. After lunch we returned to Bottchers Gap where we took a trail leaving from the campground to Mt. Carmel. It was very hot and dry and many gnats formed a cloud around us as we headed up the trail. I was also bitten repeatedly by a horse fly. The only birds were at the trailhead, Townsend’s Warbler, Hutton’s Vireo, Chickadees, and Brown Creeper. Nothing was blooming; even the Pearly Everlasting was practically dead and the only birds we saw after the first quarter mile were Steller’s Jays and Dark-eyed Juncos. There were many more Woodland Skippers and from time to time we would flush up big clusters of Golden Hairstreaks. I’m not sure if we made it to Mt. Carmel or not but wherever we were we had a good view of the surrounding mountains and the Pacific Ocean far below and we had some shade to rest under and so we turned back there. That night after dinner we went looking for owls but couldn’t find any.
Sunday morning we got up at 5:00 AM and a Great Horned Owl was calling. Just as we were about to get into the car a Northern Saw-whet Owl started making strange vocalizations at the edge of the woods but we never saw it. We drove down to Andrew Molera and had breakfast since it was too early to do so at our campground (quiet hours are from 10:00 PM to 6:00 AM). After breakfast we again scoured Andrew Molera but found very little except a flock of about eight Vaux’s Swifts, and one Warbling Vireo on the trail and one Western Bluebird at the campground. So we left there and drove to Pfieffer Big Sur State Park. We parked at the Big Sur Station and took the Pine Ridge Trail which soon leaves the state park and enters the Ventana Wilderness in Los Padres National Forest. Not long into the hike we saw a Western Gray Squirrel licking a fungus on a fallen redwood. The trail was well trod with other people and it too was very dry with little blooming but was very beautiful nevertheless. At the first stream crossing we saw a gorgeous Pacific Spiketail dragonfly patrolling the stream and an American Lady butterfly. Further up the trail we saw False Solomon seal with bright red berries and a few blooming California Fuchsia. As we proceeded we came to a big gulch with redwoods in it and a dry waterfall. We were too hungry to make it to our destination and had to stop for lunch. It was unusually hot that day. The trail is very narrow the whole way with few places to step aside for a break. So we scrambled up the dry waterfall and had our lunch. No sooner had we pulled our sandwiches out than these knuckleheads walked right up to where we were perched with their off-leash dog which they pulled up ther for a drink from a barely trickling seep. The dog lapped and lapped (they obviously had not bothered to bring it any water despite the extreme heat and commented “oh look how much water he’s drinking). They showed no regard for our privacy or for the dog for that matter. They were typical inconsiderate dog owners (redundant). We heard Acorn Woodpeckers in the woods though I never saw an oak tree on the trail. It was mostly California Bay Laurel, Pacific Madrone, Douglas Fir, Coast Redwood, and Red Alder. About half way to our destination I found a Mormon Metalmark getting nectar from one of the few blooming plants on the trail, a Nude Buckwheat. I also saw one fritillary very briefly before it flew off; I believe it was a Coronis Fritillary. At four miles we came to a turn off for the wilderness camp at Ventana Creek. The trail down to the creek was about a mile long and very steep. We went down it and it got hotter as we descended. At the creek we cooled our heads and feet before hiking back up the steep climb out. Back on the main trail we saw more Golden Hairstreaks. With about a mile left to go Susan ran out of water so we had to ration until we made it back to the stream crossing where the Pacific Spiketail was still patrolling. We had a break and our snack and the last of my water. The rest of the trail was in the shade so we didn’t have too hard a time getting back to the car. We filled our water bottles at the water fountain and then drove south to Julia Pfieffer Burns State Park. It was overrun with people so we didn’t even get out but drove back up the coast to a pull out where we looked out at the mighty Pacific Ocean while eating our dinner. Then it was back to Bottchers Gap.
Monday morning we got up, packed our things, and left Bottchers Gap. We headed north back toward home stopping at Garrapatta State Park along the way. The sun was out so we got out and walked to the coast. Sticky Monkeyflower, Pacific cinquefoil, and lots of Coast Buckwheat was blooming. At the edge we saw a female Sea Otter with a star fish on her belly. Her nose was bright red from the biting they receive from males during mating season. I bet they can’t wait until mating season is over or better yet menopause sets in. I ran back to the car to get my telephoto lens but she had hidden behind a rock to avoid marauding Western Gulls trying to steal her meal so I was not able to photograph her but we did see two males also a bit further out. As we were looking out into the kelp bed a Peregrine Falcon zoomed past and flew to the rocks on the far shore. We left there and drove all the way to Moss Landing where we turned off at Dolan Road planning to visit Elkhorn Slough. Unfortunately we did not realize it was closed on Mondays so we turned around and stopped in at Moon Glow Dairy which is an active dairy that allows birders to visit the ponds bordering the slough. There were hundreds of Red-necked Phalaropes in the first pond. On the other side were Willets, Lesser Yellowlegs, Marbled Godwits, Western Sandpipers, and Least Sandpipers, Semi-palmated Plovers, and two Baird’s Sandpipers which we got a good look at before they flew away. There were several Long-billed Curlews in the mud flats. Out in the slough were Clark’s Grebe, Western Grebe, and Pied-billed Grebe.
Next we drove to Salinas River NWR where it was incredibly foggy. There were six well marked signs in the parking lot “NO DOGS.” Out at the beach guess what we saw—yes, a dog. Dog owners have a universal vigilantism it seems that makes them think they are above the law. It didn’t matter because there were very few birds, just a few Killdeer, Sanderlings, and Heerman’s Gulls. On the way back to the car we saw another Anise Swallowtail. We left there and drove to Moss Landing where we saw an incredible fourteen Sea Otters floating in the channel. The only birds were more Godwits, Willets, and a Great Blue Heron. A few Black-necked Stilts flew past and we saw another Peregrine Falcon and that was about it. So we left there and drove all the way to Waddell Beach in San Mateo County. We crossed the highway and took the Skyline to the Sea Trail in Big Basin Redwoods State Park. We only had time to hike a mile or two before it was time to turn around and head home. There were not many birds around, just a few chickadees, Steller’s Jay, Downy Woodpecker, and Dark-eyed Juncos. We saw one Western Tiger Swallowtail, many Woodland Skippers, California Sister, and another Satyr Comma. Almost back to the trailhead we came across a beautiful Twelve-spotted Skimmer. As we left San Mateo County and headed home we entered the fog belt of San Francisco and watched the thermometer plummet. The birding had been abysmal but it had sure been nice to spend a hot weekend in Big Sur and on California's spectacular Central Coast.
Michelle Brodie
September 5, 2007
Early Friday morning, August 31 I drove down to the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve in Moss Beach, CA for a sea watch. It was pretty foggy all morning but I could still see a lot. There were a few people tidepooling below me but no one else paying the least bit of attention to the sea birds flying past. A few Harbor Seals rested on the rocks off shore. The only gulls I saw were Western Gull, Heerman’s Gull, and California Gull. A steady parade of Elegant Terns flew past heading south with a few fishing just to the north of the preserve where I saw several Parasitic Jaegers harassing them trying to get a free meal by stealing the fish they caught. A couple of Pigeon Guillemots flew south in front of me and from time to time I could just make out a Sooty Shearwater or two flying north low over the water. On the rocks I saw some Black Turnstones, Black Bellied Plover, and Black Oystercatcher. There were quite a few Red-necked Phalaropes flying and sitting on the water and the usual Common Murres and Brandt’s Cormorants. Pelagic Cormorants, and a few Double-crested Cormorants. Around 9:00 AM things started to slow down so I moved on down the coast and inland where the sun had poked through the fog. I took Higgins-Purissima Road in Half Moon Bay to Burleigh-Murray Regional Park where I took a short walk. A Red-shouldered Hawk called loudly from a tree and a Turkey Vulture and Red-tailed Hawk soared overhead. As I arrived at the riparian section I saw Downy Woodpecker, Northern Flicker, and Nuttall’s Woodpecker in the trees. Wrentits sang from the hillsides and one Band-tailed Pigeon flew up the trail ahead of me. The only other birds here were Steller’s Jay, Chestnut-backed Chickadee, White-crowned Sparrow, Song Sparrow, and Hutton’s Vireo. There were several species of butterfly including Anise Swallowtail, Margined White, Cabbage White, Field Crescent, Woodland Skipper, and a Satyr Comma. After my little walk I drove further south to Pescadero Marsh where the tide was coming in fast so that there were few shorebirds to look at. I only saw Surf Scoter, Willet, Marbled Godwit, Red-necked Phalarope in abundance, and Red-breasted Merganser. On the dunes I was surprised to see one Acmon Blue butterfly. I left there and returned home to pick up Susan for our Labor Day camping trip. We drove down to Big Sur and then inland to the Los Padres National Forest where we camped for three nights at Bottchers Gap. Susan spotted a White-tailed Kite along the way. The last time we camped there we heard a Spotted Owl at night; we did not hear a Spotted Owl but the first night as we lay in the tent we heard Northern Saw-whet Owl, Western Screech-owl, and Great Horned Owl. The sky was clear and lots of stars twinkled in the sky along with bright Jupiter.
Saturday morning we got up early and after breakfast headed over to Andrew Molera State Park. We walked all over the park to the Big Sur Ornithology Lab, the Big Sur River, the trail to the campground, and all the way to Molera Point but we saw very few birds. On the trail were a few Wilson’s Warblers and Yellow Warblers and one Hutton’s Vireo. Violet-green Swallows flitted overhead along with a couple of Barn Swallows. There was nothing at all in the campground except a Monarch butterfly and more Woodland Skippers. Past the campground we found a Pacific-slope Flycatcher in the willows, one Spotted Towhee, and a California Towhee. A Northern Harrier was scanning the meadow. Out at the point we saw a Peregrine Falcon perched on a rock at the water’s edge where it stayed for the entire time we were there. California Quail were in the trees but there was practically nothing to look at in the ocean except Brandt’s Cormorant and Surf Scoter. There was one Fiery Skipper at the point. Around the campground Susan found a Common Buckeye and there were a few Common Ringlets and Mylitta and Field Crescents. Back at the parking area we had our lunch at the picnic area where we saw a Lorquin’s Admiral going repeatedly to a willow tree by the river and a few California Sisters and some Whites chasing both of them. After lunch we returned to Bottchers Gap where we took a trail leaving from the campground to Mt. Carmel. It was very hot and dry and many gnats formed a cloud around us as we headed up the trail. I was also bitten repeatedly by a horse fly. The only birds were at the trailhead, Townsend’s Warbler, Hutton’s Vireo, Chickadees, and Brown Creeper. Nothing was blooming; even the Pearly Everlasting was practically dead and the only birds we saw after the first quarter mile were Steller’s Jays and Dark-eyed Juncos. There were many more Woodland Skippers and from time to time we would flush up big clusters of Golden Hairstreaks. I’m not sure if we made it to Mt. Carmel or not but wherever we were we had a good view of the surrounding mountains and the Pacific Ocean far below and we had some shade to rest under and so we turned back there. That night after dinner we went looking for owls but couldn’t find any.
Sunday morning we got up at 5:00 AM and a Great Horned Owl was calling. Just as we were about to get into the car a Northern Saw-whet Owl started making strange vocalizations at the edge of the woods but we never saw it. We drove down to Andrew Molera and had breakfast since it was too early to do so at our campground (quiet hours are from 10:00 PM to 6:00 AM). After breakfast we again scoured Andrew Molera but found very little except a flock of about eight Vaux’s Swifts, and one Warbling Vireo on the trail and one Western Bluebird at the campground. So we left there and drove to Pfieffer Big Sur State Park. We parked at the Big Sur Station and took the Pine Ridge Trail which soon leaves the state park and enters the Ventana Wilderness in Los Padres National Forest. Not long into the hike we saw a Western Gray Squirrel licking a fungus on a fallen redwood. The trail was well trod with other people and it too was very dry with little blooming but was very beautiful nevertheless. At the first stream crossing we saw a gorgeous Pacific Spiketail dragonfly patrolling the stream and an American Lady butterfly. Further up the trail we saw False Solomon seal with bright red berries and a few blooming California Fuchsia. As we proceeded we came to a big gulch with redwoods in it and a dry waterfall. We were too hungry to make it to our destination and had to stop for lunch. It was unusually hot that day. The trail is very narrow the whole way with few places to step aside for a break. So we scrambled up the dry waterfall and had our lunch. No sooner had we pulled our sandwiches out than these knuckleheads walked right up to where we were perched with their off-leash dog which they pulled up ther for a drink from a barely trickling seep. The dog lapped and lapped (they obviously had not bothered to bring it any water despite the extreme heat and commented “oh look how much water he’s drinking). They showed no regard for our privacy or for the dog for that matter. They were typical inconsiderate dog owners (redundant). We heard Acorn Woodpeckers in the woods though I never saw an oak tree on the trail. It was mostly California Bay Laurel, Pacific Madrone, Douglas Fir, Coast Redwood, and Red Alder. About half way to our destination I found a Mormon Metalmark getting nectar from one of the few blooming plants on the trail, a Nude Buckwheat. I also saw one fritillary very briefly before it flew off; I believe it was a Coronis Fritillary. At four miles we came to a turn off for the wilderness camp at Ventana Creek. The trail down to the creek was about a mile long and very steep. We went down it and it got hotter as we descended. At the creek we cooled our heads and feet before hiking back up the steep climb out. Back on the main trail we saw more Golden Hairstreaks. With about a mile left to go Susan ran out of water so we had to ration until we made it back to the stream crossing where the Pacific Spiketail was still patrolling. We had a break and our snack and the last of my water. The rest of the trail was in the shade so we didn’t have too hard a time getting back to the car. We filled our water bottles at the water fountain and then drove south to Julia Pfieffer Burns State Park. It was overrun with people so we didn’t even get out but drove back up the coast to a pull out where we looked out at the mighty Pacific Ocean while eating our dinner. Then it was back to Bottchers Gap.
Monday morning we got up, packed our things, and left Bottchers Gap. We headed north back toward home stopping at Garrapatta State Park along the way. The sun was out so we got out and walked to the coast. Sticky Monkeyflower, Pacific cinquefoil, and lots of Coast Buckwheat was blooming. At the edge we saw a female Sea Otter with a star fish on her belly. Her nose was bright red from the biting they receive from males during mating season. I bet they can’t wait until mating season is over or better yet menopause sets in. I ran back to the car to get my telephoto lens but she had hidden behind a rock to avoid marauding Western Gulls trying to steal her meal so I was not able to photograph her but we did see two males also a bit further out. As we were looking out into the kelp bed a Peregrine Falcon zoomed past and flew to the rocks on the far shore. We left there and drove all the way to Moss Landing where we turned off at Dolan Road planning to visit Elkhorn Slough. Unfortunately we did not realize it was closed on Mondays so we turned around and stopped in at Moon Glow Dairy which is an active dairy that allows birders to visit the ponds bordering the slough. There were hundreds of Red-necked Phalaropes in the first pond. On the other side were Willets, Lesser Yellowlegs, Marbled Godwits, Western Sandpipers, and Least Sandpipers, Semi-palmated Plovers, and two Baird’s Sandpipers which we got a good look at before they flew away. There were several Long-billed Curlews in the mud flats. Out in the slough were Clark’s Grebe, Western Grebe, and Pied-billed Grebe.
Next we drove to Salinas River NWR where it was incredibly foggy. There were six well marked signs in the parking lot “NO DOGS.” Out at the beach guess what we saw—yes, a dog. Dog owners have a universal vigilantism it seems that makes them think they are above the law. It didn’t matter because there were very few birds, just a few Killdeer, Sanderlings, and Heerman’s Gulls. On the way back to the car we saw another Anise Swallowtail. We left there and drove to Moss Landing where we saw an incredible fourteen Sea Otters floating in the channel. The only birds were more Godwits, Willets, and a Great Blue Heron. A few Black-necked Stilts flew past and we saw another Peregrine Falcon and that was about it. So we left there and drove all the way to Waddell Beach in San Mateo County. We crossed the highway and took the Skyline to the Sea Trail in Big Basin Redwoods State Park. We only had time to hike a mile or two before it was time to turn around and head home. There were not many birds around, just a few chickadees, Steller’s Jay, Downy Woodpecker, and Dark-eyed Juncos. We saw one Western Tiger Swallowtail, many Woodland Skippers, California Sister, and another Satyr Comma. Almost back to the trailhead we came across a beautiful Twelve-spotted Skimmer. As we left San Mateo County and headed home we entered the fog belt of San Francisco and watched the thermometer plummet. The birding had been abysmal but it had sure been nice to spend a hot weekend in Big Sur and on California's spectacular Central Coast.
Michelle Brodie
September 5, 2007
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Eastern Sierra: August 18,19, 2007
I just had to get out of the city and so I took a little mini-vacation to Mono Lake, Inyo National Forest, and Yosemite National Park over the weekend. I got off work early but still got caught in some pretty nasty traffic on I-580. I stopped in Groveland, CA and had dinner. Then it was so late by the time I got to the turn off for Tioga Road that I decided to stop and take a walk in Crane Flat Meadow to look for Great Gray Owl. I couldn't find one or hear one so I continued on to Mono Craters where I camped for the night.
I got up so early Saturday morning that not even the Pinyon Jays were calling yet. I drove up Highway 395 to Lundy Canyon. On the drive into the canyon I stopped at the first pond and saw a beaver. Lundy Canyon was reflected in the pond. I didn't see anyone on the trail at all until my return trip. Most of the wildflowers that were blooming in July had already died but there were still a few lingering things blooming including lots of Yampah, Yarrow, a few Monkshood and Tall Larkspur, and a little bit of paintbrush and Broad-leaved lupine. Grass of Parnassus was blooming all along Lundy Creek. A Baneberry had dropped its flowers and developed bright red berries. There weren't nearly as many birds as I was hoping. though I did get a very good look at a female MacGillivray's Warbler and an Orange-crowned Warbler. A Pine Siskin perched in a tree near me as I headed past the first waterfall. A Belted Kingfisher was working the pond. The only other interesting bird was a Dusky Flycatcher that wouldn't wait for a photo. The sole butterfly was a Mourning Cloak. I went as far as the waterfall at the scree and then turned back. I next drove to Mono County Park and walked out onto the boardwalk. There were many Red-necked Phalaropes and Wilson's Phalaropes, a few Eared Grebes, and three Yellow-headed Blackbirds (for some reason all the ones at Mono Lake have orange heads) in the lake. In the willows were some Yellow Warblers and one Lazuli Bunting. A flock of Pinyon Jays flew past. There were a couple of fritillary butterflies and one white but they never landed so I'm not sure what kind. I wanted to check a pond Dave Shuford showed us one time on a Pt. Reyes Field Seminar but I could not find it. So I ended up driving to Black Point, the remnants of an underwater volcano on Mono Lake. I walked out to the edge of the lake. There were several Blazing Stars blooming but the blooms were all closed. I accidentally flushed a Wilson's Snipe near the water's edge. There was a flock of American Avocets, a couple of Willets, and a few other things. As I drove back toward the park about fourteen Common Nighthawks flew overhead. I got out of the car to get a better look and spotted a Sage Sparrow perched on a sage brush. Back at the County Park a giant outdoor party was about to commence and there were hundreds of cars parked all along the entrance road so I had to get out of there. Some blackguard, baseborn, miscreant was taking his dog into the park right past the "no dogs" sign. My experience has been that the majority of people who own dogs are completely selfish people with a complete disregard for the rules and for nature.
Next I drove south on Highway 395 to Crowley Lake, a very popular fishing lake but also a magnet for birds during migration. I parked near the water's edge and there was a White-faced Ibis there along the shore. As I walked toward a flock of birds further along the shore I noticed about 10 more plus a flock of American Avocets and several Eared Grebes. Mono Basin hosts the largest gathering of Eared Grebes in the fall anywhere in the US. A few Eared Grebes had chicks trying to ride on their backs which is so cute to watch. A small flock of American White Pelicans were on the lake and a group of shorebirds huddled on the shoreline trying to avoid the speed boats. I saw a dead White Pelican on the shore I'm sure a victim of villianous boaters who share with dog owners a disregard for rules and nature. In the shorebird flock were Long-billed Dowitchers, Willets, Least Sandpipers, Marbled Godwits, Wilson's Phalaropes, and Red-necked Phalaropes. There were two Western Grebes bravely swimming further out. Some Caspian Terns and Forster's Terns were working the lake for fish. While studying a flock of ducks which turned out to be Cinnamon Teals I turned around and noticed a Bullock's Oriole in a willow. There were also a couple of Horned Larks on the ground. After assuring myself I was not overlooking any rarities which turn up regularly at Crowley Lake in late August, I left for Glass Creek Meadow. The wind was becoming pretty stiff and I saw no butterflies at all. There were a few Red Crossbills in the conifers; they enjoy this area it seems as I saw them there last time as well. I heard a strange bird calling and looked and looked up thinking maybe it was one of the many Clark's Nutcrackers around or a Steller's Jay. I only looked down at the ground at the last moment, just in time to see the last of a Mountain Quail before it ducked into some thick brush. Damn, I wanted a picture: I have seen so many but never gotten a picture. There was the usual assortment of mountain birds, White-breased Nuthatch, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Mountain Chickadee, Chipping Sparrow, and Cassin's Finch. However, the meadow was practically devoid of the outstanding wildflower display it held in July. The only things left blooming were a few Brewer's Lupines, one Meadow Penstemon, and a lone Lewis's Monkeyflower. At the end of my hike I found a private place for a solar shower, had my dinner at a picnic area near Obsidian Dome, and then headed back to my campsite. The stars were magnificent. The crescent moon soon set leaving the sky ultra-dark for star gazing. As I stared up at the starry sky it was as though it were a cloudy night but actually it was just the thick band of the milky way strewn across the sky. Our English word galaxy comes from the Greek word for milk. I turned into bed and fell asleep. During the night the wind picked up considerably even rocking the car at times.
Sunday morning I again got up before the first bird sang and after breakfast headed over to South Tufa Reserve. I was the first person there. Yeah, solitude! I walked down to the Mono Lake shore and there were several Sage Thrashers and Brewer's Sparrows there eating the brine flies. I watched an awesome sight as the sun came up and put the tufas in an orange glow. After walking the loop trail I drove back over to Mono County Park where mercifully the party was over. A crew had arrived to remove the trash from the party the day before. They had put a cardboard box over the "no dogs" sign and had an off-leash dog roaming around while they cleaned up their mess while a worthless reprobate state park employee stood on doing nothing. I was the first person out on the boardwalk and that turned out to be very lucky for me. As I stood at the end of the boardwalk looking at the phalaropes something ran across the boardwalk catching my eye. It popped up again between the slats pretty close to me and I could see that it was a Long-tailed Weasel! I have never seen one before. It ran fast between the slats like Pop goes the weasel. I barely got this blurry photo before it ran off. What a special treat that was. After the boardwalk I was heading back toward the car when I came upon a group of birders. Some lady told me they were looking at an American Redstart in the willow tree. I got my binoculars on it and it was a first year male or female. I left them and walked across the road to the trees there hoping for Lewis's Woodpecker. I had no luck with that species but found a Red-breasted Sapsucker, Hairy Woodpecker, and Downy Woodpecker. Two Calliope Hummingbirds nearly flew into me. There was also a Spotted Towhee, House Wren, Black-billed Magpie, and Western Wood Pewee. Three Black-crowned Night-herons flew over. Then I decided I better start my planned hike. So I drove from Mono Lake into Yosemite National Park and parked at the Mono Pass Trailhead. I only saw about five peole the entire 12 mile hike. There were many fritillary butterflies and a few sulphurs. The trail starts out at 9000 feet and goes as high as 11,100 feet at Parker Pass which I took after Mono Pass. On the trail up to Mono Pass a White-headed Woodpecker flew into a tree right in front of me. I was surprised to see a Savannah Sparrow on the trail. There were the usual Chipping Sparrows and Dark-eyed Juncos but I don't know what a Savannah Sparrow was doing there. There were some more Clark's Nutcrackers, nuthatches, one Hammond's Flycatcher, and one Brown Creeper. At Mono Pass, 10,599 feet, I spotted a Sandhill Skipper. It was extremely windy at the pass so I dropped down to Sardine Lake and had my lunch there. Nearly all the great wildflowers from 4th of July were gone. Near Sardine Lake an odd flycatcher flew into a tree. I didn't get a great look but I am pretty sure it was a Gray Flycatcher. After lunch I also took the trail to Parker Pass where I was surprised to see a Northern Harrier scanning the ridge. I also saw a few sulphur butterflies. Not much flies at that elevation which is timberline but the butterflies would never land so I was unable to get a picture or identify them to species. The view from Parker Pass was not nearly as inspiring as I thought it would be so I dropped down a bit futher into the Ansel Adams Wilderness which is in Inyo National Forest and not Yosemite but it was getting late and I still had to drive back to the city so I turned back there. A flock of American Pipits flew across the barren pass. On the way back down I passed more fritillaries and another sulphur. This one I was able to photograph but it turned out to be an ordinary Orange Sulphur. Most likely the fritillaries at timberline were Mormon Fritillaries but the ones lower down I think were Great Basin Fritillaries. Who knows; those darn things are so hard to tell apart. As I dropped back down in elevation I came across some blooming groundsel, American Bistort, and Nude buckwheat but not much else but a few lupines. I got back to the car around 4:00 PM and then it was time to head back home. Heavy sigh.
Michelle Brodie
August 22, 2007
I got up so early Saturday morning that not even the Pinyon Jays were calling yet. I drove up Highway 395 to Lundy Canyon. On the drive into the canyon I stopped at the first pond and saw a beaver. Lundy Canyon was reflected in the pond. I didn't see anyone on the trail at all until my return trip. Most of the wildflowers that were blooming in July had already died but there were still a few lingering things blooming including lots of Yampah, Yarrow, a few Monkshood and Tall Larkspur, and a little bit of paintbrush and Broad-leaved lupine. Grass of Parnassus was blooming all along Lundy Creek. A Baneberry had dropped its flowers and developed bright red berries. There weren't nearly as many birds as I was hoping. though I did get a very good look at a female MacGillivray's Warbler and an Orange-crowned Warbler. A Pine Siskin perched in a tree near me as I headed past the first waterfall. A Belted Kingfisher was working the pond. The only other interesting bird was a Dusky Flycatcher that wouldn't wait for a photo. The sole butterfly was a Mourning Cloak. I went as far as the waterfall at the scree and then turned back. I next drove to Mono County Park and walked out onto the boardwalk. There were many Red-necked Phalaropes and Wilson's Phalaropes, a few Eared Grebes, and three Yellow-headed Blackbirds (for some reason all the ones at Mono Lake have orange heads) in the lake. In the willows were some Yellow Warblers and one Lazuli Bunting. A flock of Pinyon Jays flew past. There were a couple of fritillary butterflies and one white but they never landed so I'm not sure what kind. I wanted to check a pond Dave Shuford showed us one time on a Pt. Reyes Field Seminar but I could not find it. So I ended up driving to Black Point, the remnants of an underwater volcano on Mono Lake. I walked out to the edge of the lake. There were several Blazing Stars blooming but the blooms were all closed. I accidentally flushed a Wilson's Snipe near the water's edge. There was a flock of American Avocets, a couple of Willets, and a few other things. As I drove back toward the park about fourteen Common Nighthawks flew overhead. I got out of the car to get a better look and spotted a Sage Sparrow perched on a sage brush. Back at the County Park a giant outdoor party was about to commence and there were hundreds of cars parked all along the entrance road so I had to get out of there. Some blackguard, baseborn, miscreant was taking his dog into the park right past the "no dogs" sign. My experience has been that the majority of people who own dogs are completely selfish people with a complete disregard for the rules and for nature.
Next I drove south on Highway 395 to Crowley Lake, a very popular fishing lake but also a magnet for birds during migration. I parked near the water's edge and there was a White-faced Ibis there along the shore. As I walked toward a flock of birds further along the shore I noticed about 10 more plus a flock of American Avocets and several Eared Grebes. Mono Basin hosts the largest gathering of Eared Grebes in the fall anywhere in the US. A few Eared Grebes had chicks trying to ride on their backs which is so cute to watch. A small flock of American White Pelicans were on the lake and a group of shorebirds huddled on the shoreline trying to avoid the speed boats. I saw a dead White Pelican on the shore I'm sure a victim of villianous boaters who share with dog owners a disregard for rules and nature. In the shorebird flock were Long-billed Dowitchers, Willets, Least Sandpipers, Marbled Godwits, Wilson's Phalaropes, and Red-necked Phalaropes. There were two Western Grebes bravely swimming further out. Some Caspian Terns and Forster's Terns were working the lake for fish. While studying a flock of ducks which turned out to be Cinnamon Teals I turned around and noticed a Bullock's Oriole in a willow. There were also a couple of Horned Larks on the ground. After assuring myself I was not overlooking any rarities which turn up regularly at Crowley Lake in late August, I left for Glass Creek Meadow. The wind was becoming pretty stiff and I saw no butterflies at all. There were a few Red Crossbills in the conifers; they enjoy this area it seems as I saw them there last time as well. I heard a strange bird calling and looked and looked up thinking maybe it was one of the many Clark's Nutcrackers around or a Steller's Jay. I only looked down at the ground at the last moment, just in time to see the last of a Mountain Quail before it ducked into some thick brush. Damn, I wanted a picture: I have seen so many but never gotten a picture. There was the usual assortment of mountain birds, White-breased Nuthatch, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Mountain Chickadee, Chipping Sparrow, and Cassin's Finch. However, the meadow was practically devoid of the outstanding wildflower display it held in July. The only things left blooming were a few Brewer's Lupines, one Meadow Penstemon, and a lone Lewis's Monkeyflower. At the end of my hike I found a private place for a solar shower, had my dinner at a picnic area near Obsidian Dome, and then headed back to my campsite. The stars were magnificent. The crescent moon soon set leaving the sky ultra-dark for star gazing. As I stared up at the starry sky it was as though it were a cloudy night but actually it was just the thick band of the milky way strewn across the sky. Our English word galaxy comes from the Greek word for milk. I turned into bed and fell asleep. During the night the wind picked up considerably even rocking the car at times.
Sunday morning I again got up before the first bird sang and after breakfast headed over to South Tufa Reserve. I was the first person there. Yeah, solitude! I walked down to the Mono Lake shore and there were several Sage Thrashers and Brewer's Sparrows there eating the brine flies. I watched an awesome sight as the sun came up and put the tufas in an orange glow. After walking the loop trail I drove back over to Mono County Park where mercifully the party was over. A crew had arrived to remove the trash from the party the day before. They had put a cardboard box over the "no dogs" sign and had an off-leash dog roaming around while they cleaned up their mess while a worthless reprobate state park employee stood on doing nothing. I was the first person out on the boardwalk and that turned out to be very lucky for me. As I stood at the end of the boardwalk looking at the phalaropes something ran across the boardwalk catching my eye. It popped up again between the slats pretty close to me and I could see that it was a Long-tailed Weasel! I have never seen one before. It ran fast between the slats like Pop goes the weasel. I barely got this blurry photo before it ran off. What a special treat that was. After the boardwalk I was heading back toward the car when I came upon a group of birders. Some lady told me they were looking at an American Redstart in the willow tree. I got my binoculars on it and it was a first year male or female. I left them and walked across the road to the trees there hoping for Lewis's Woodpecker. I had no luck with that species but found a Red-breasted Sapsucker, Hairy Woodpecker, and Downy Woodpecker. Two Calliope Hummingbirds nearly flew into me. There was also a Spotted Towhee, House Wren, Black-billed Magpie, and Western Wood Pewee. Three Black-crowned Night-herons flew over. Then I decided I better start my planned hike. So I drove from Mono Lake into Yosemite National Park and parked at the Mono Pass Trailhead. I only saw about five peole the entire 12 mile hike. There were many fritillary butterflies and a few sulphurs. The trail starts out at 9000 feet and goes as high as 11,100 feet at Parker Pass which I took after Mono Pass. On the trail up to Mono Pass a White-headed Woodpecker flew into a tree right in front of me. I was surprised to see a Savannah Sparrow on the trail. There were the usual Chipping Sparrows and Dark-eyed Juncos but I don't know what a Savannah Sparrow was doing there. There were some more Clark's Nutcrackers, nuthatches, one Hammond's Flycatcher, and one Brown Creeper. At Mono Pass, 10,599 feet, I spotted a Sandhill Skipper. It was extremely windy at the pass so I dropped down to Sardine Lake and had my lunch there. Nearly all the great wildflowers from 4th of July were gone. Near Sardine Lake an odd flycatcher flew into a tree. I didn't get a great look but I am pretty sure it was a Gray Flycatcher. After lunch I also took the trail to Parker Pass where I was surprised to see a Northern Harrier scanning the ridge. I also saw a few sulphur butterflies. Not much flies at that elevation which is timberline but the butterflies would never land so I was unable to get a picture or identify them to species. The view from Parker Pass was not nearly as inspiring as I thought it would be so I dropped down a bit futher into the Ansel Adams Wilderness which is in Inyo National Forest and not Yosemite but it was getting late and I still had to drive back to the city so I turned back there. A flock of American Pipits flew across the barren pass. On the way back down I passed more fritillaries and another sulphur. This one I was able to photograph but it turned out to be an ordinary Orange Sulphur. Most likely the fritillaries at timberline were Mormon Fritillaries but the ones lower down I think were Great Basin Fritillaries. Who knows; those darn things are so hard to tell apart. As I dropped back down in elevation I came across some blooming groundsel, American Bistort, and Nude buckwheat but not much else but a few lupines. I got back to the car around 4:00 PM and then it was time to head back home. Heavy sigh.
Michelle Brodie
August 22, 2007
Tuesday, August 14, 2007
Ft. Bragg, CA Pelagic: August 12, 2007
On Sunday, August 12, 2007, I took my first pelagic out of Ft. Bragg, CA. This is billed as a "mega-raritiy" trip and there is a hefty charge to take it on Shearwater Journeys. We departed from Noyo Harbor on the Trek II boat. As we passed under the bridge out of the harbor we saw Black Turnstones, Wandering Tattler, Pigeon Guillemot, Pelagic Cormorant on the rocks. As we headed off shore mostly we saw lots of California Gulls and a few Western Gulls. Finally after about two hours we came across a Cassin's Auklet and a couple of Rhinoceros Auklets. Then we found a Pink-footed Shearwater sitting on the water. There were not many Sooty Shearwaters like I expected. We drove on for a long time without seeing anything else but a few more Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters. Eventually we came into a pod of Humpback whales playing. Then a Black-footed Albatross flew in close to the boat. The birds were few and far in between after that excitement. We passed a frolicking Northern Fur Seal and then we came into a large pod of Risso's Dolphins that were showing off their high fins and sometimes leaping up in the air. They can be identified by the unique scars on their fins. One of the ones we saw had a collapsed dorsal fin. Right after that exciting encounter a Northern Fulmar landed right next to the boat.
Then the sea went calm, the sun came out, and lighting and conditions were quite nice. However, there were no birds for an extended period of time. Of course as soon as I pulled my sandwich out a Pomarine Jaeger flew by that I completely missed out on. After lunch we went way out to sea to Cordell Bank but still no rarities came by. There were many, many Red-necked Phalaropes around the boat all day long and Common Murres flew by all day as well. Finally we were running out of gas and had to head back. Not too far off shore a Sabine's Gull landed in the water nearby in perfect lighting and that was it before heading back to shore. As we proceeded back under the bridge at Noyo Harbor we saw a Clark's Grebe and some Common Loons but no rarities. Oh well, I'll just have to go back out there again soon.
Michelle Brodie
August 14, 2007
Then the sea went calm, the sun came out, and lighting and conditions were quite nice. However, there were no birds for an extended period of time. Of course as soon as I pulled my sandwich out a Pomarine Jaeger flew by that I completely missed out on. After lunch we went way out to sea to Cordell Bank but still no rarities came by. There were many, many Red-necked Phalaropes around the boat all day long and Common Murres flew by all day as well. Finally we were running out of gas and had to head back. Not too far off shore a Sabine's Gull landed in the water nearby in perfect lighting and that was it before heading back to shore. As we proceeded back under the bridge at Noyo Harbor we saw a Clark's Grebe and some Common Loons but no rarities. Oh well, I'll just have to go back out there again soon.
Michelle Brodie
August 14, 2007
Monday, August 13, 2007
Cherry Grove, SC: July 28-August 4, 2007
On July 28, 2007 I went to North Myrtle Beach, SC for my annual family reunion. I arrived too late on Saturday to do much of anything but settle into my little beach front bungalow. On Sunday morning I got up early and drove to Calabash, NC and visited Vereen Gardens. There were many Green Herons and Snowy and Great Egrets but not too much else. I drove from there to Sunset Beach, NC and walked out to the north end of the beach where the shorebirds roost. There were a few Wilson's Plovers, American Oystercatchers, Black Skimmers, Sandwich Terns, Common Terns, and one Least Tern. After examining all the shorebirds I left stopping at Sunset Lake before heading back to Cherry Grove for a day at the beach. There were many Wood Storks in the trees.
On Monday, July 30, 2007, I drove into North Carolina again to Green Swamp Preserve where I heard there are Henslow's Sparrows. I didn't see or hear any but there were a few Bachman's Sparrows. I also saw a few juvenile Redheaded Woodpeckers. There were lots of pitcher plants growing and many Common Wood Nymphs and Palamedes butterflies. The only warblers were Pine Warbler and Common Yellowthroat. I saw one Blue Grosbeak.
Tuesday, July 31, 2007, I went to Cherry Grove Park with John. We found some Painted Buntings in the trees there and then John told me about a new park down the road from the boat launch, Heritage Shores Nature Preserve. This park just opened in January 2007, an oasis in a sea of development that is North Myrtle Beach. It had great boardwalks over the marsh, many exhibits and picnic tables, and showed great potential as a fall migrant trap. We heard Clapper Rails calling from the marsh and saw Little Blue Heron, lots of Mockingbirds and Cardinals and Egrets. A Gull-billed Tern flew by and we saw one Seaside Sparrow in the marsh. An Osprey patrolled the canal.
Wednesday, August 1, 2007, I again checked the Heritage Shores Nature Preserve in Cherry Grove. There was a Tri-colored Heron right at the entrance. Many birds were flying up the channel headed toward Waites Island including Wood Stork and Glossy Ibis. I found a Great-crested Flycatcher in the trees and a Boat-tailed Grackle was perched across the canal. I decided to ride my boogie board across Hog Inlet at high tide when nobody esle would venture over to deserted Waites Island (you can walk across Hog Inlet at low tide). There was a large flock of Brown Pelicans, Laughing Gulls, and many tern species, Royal, Least, Common, Forster's, Caspian, and Sandwich. There were also Willet, Sanderling, Black-bellied Plover, Semi-palmated Plover, Western Sandpiper, American Oystercatcher, Great Egret, Black Skimmer. one Herring Gull, and one Great Black-backed Gull. It was tough boogie boarding across the channel at high tide but worth it for the solitude and flocks of birds.
Thursday, August 2, 2007, John and I drove all the way down to Brookgreen Gardens in Murell's Inlet, SC, only to find it closed until 9:30 AM. So we entered Huntington Beach and walked the causeway and the boardwalk. We saw Wood Stork, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, Tri-colored Heron, Osprey, White Ibis, Glossy Ibis, Least Tern, Forster's Tern, Royal Tern, Caspian Tern, Great Blue Heron, Lesser Yellowlegs, and one unidentified sparrow and many alligators. At the Education Center we saw two Painted Buntings and one Orchard Oriole. Then we headed over to Brookgreen. On the way out John spotted this Golden Silk Orbweaver in an oak tree. There were many Black Swallowtail butterflies. We saw one Eastern Kingbird, Brown Thrasher, Red-bellied Woodpecker, and Eastern Bluebird. There were some Blue Jays in the oak trees and we heard an Indigo Bunting singing. A Ruby-throated Hummingbird zipped by and one Black-crowned Night-heron. We went to the bird rehab center where we saw some Fulvous-whistling Ducks. We only saw one Zebra Swallowtail but it wouldn't land for a picture. There were many Eastern Lubber grasshoppers on the lawn.
On August 3, 2007 I again visited Heritage Shores Nature Preserve. The Clapper Rails were calling from the marsh but I never saw them. The Tri-colored Heron was still lurking about but there was not much else.
On the last day, August 4, 2007, I said goodbye to everyone and then drove back down to Huntington Beach State Park. I walked from the boardwalk out onto the beach. A roped off area contained the federally endangered species, Seabeach Amaranth. I walked all the way out to the jetty where I was shocked to see a family swimming in the marsh. Fortunately I found a flock of shorebirds just off the beach at the edge of the marsh prior to reaching the jetty, containing Wilson's Plover, Semi-palmated Plover, Western Sandpiper, Semi-palmated Sandpiper, and some other things. Obviously there were no birds where the idiots were swimming in the marsh. I went to the area behind the jetty which is roped off for nesting Least Terns. A large sign indicated no dogs allowed. Nevertheless, a man and his two kids walked up with an off-leash dog and proceeded to the "no dogs allowed" area and began swimming in the marsh with the dog. I was furious. Are people in SC completely retarded? I found a large flock of Black Skimmers and American Oystercatchers in the fenced off area. They are right to put an electric fence there. Too bad it didn't electrocute the family with the dog. When I got back to the entrance to the beach I found the sign for the endangered Seabeach Amaranth knocked over and one of the endangered plants trampled. A woman walked by and stomped a cigarette butt into the sand. It made me sad that people are so uncaring and so unaware about the world they live in. After resting at the picnic area I walked out to Sandpiper pond where I saw a Common Moorhen. I walked the Sandpiper trail and found flock of American Avocets on the furthest edge of the pond (this is most likely also where I contracted chiggers!!@) There was also a shorebird crouched on the far shore that I think was a Stilt Sandpiper but I could not see it very well without a scope. I saw a scruffy looking Carolina Satyr on the trail on my way back to the car. Then it was time to go back to civilization --California.
Michelle Brodie, August 13, 2007
Complete list of birds seen:
Brown Pelican, Double-crested Cormorant, Anhinga, Great Blue Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, Tricolored Heron, Green Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, White Ibis, Glossy Ibis, Wood Stork, Fulvous Whistling-Duck, Wood Duck, Mallard, Turkey Vulture, Osprey, Red-tailed Hawk, Clapper Rail, Common Moorhen, Black-bellied Plover, Wilson’s Plover, Semi-palmated Plover, Piping Plover, Killdeer, American Oystercatcher, American Avocet, Lesser Yellowlegs, Willet, Spotted Sandpiper, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, Semi-palmated Sandpiper, Western Sandpiper, Stilt Sandpiper, Short-billed Dowitcher, Laughing Gull, Ring-billed Gull, California Gull, Herring Gull, Great Black-backed Gull, Caspian Tern, Royal Tern, Sandwich Tern, Common Tern, Forster’s Tern, Least Tern, Black Skimmer, Mourning Dove, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Belted Kingfisher, Red-headed Woodpecker, Red-bellied Woodpecker, Downy Woodpecker, Northern Flicker, Eastern Wood-Pewee, Eastern Kingbird, Purple Martin, Tree Swallow, Barn Swallow, Blue Jay, American Crow, Fish Crow, Carolina Chickadee, Tufted Titmouse, White-breasted Nuthatch, Brown-headed Nuthatch, Carolina Wren, Eastern Bluebird, American Robin, Northern Mockingbird, Brown Thrasher, Pine Warbler, Common Yellowthroat, Northern Cardinal, Blue Grosbeak, Painted Bunting, Eastern Towhee, Bachman’s Sparrow, Seaside Sparrow, Dark-eyed Junco, Red-winged Blackbird, Common Grackle, Orchard Oriole, House Finch, House Sparrow
On Monday, July 30, 2007, I drove into North Carolina again to Green Swamp Preserve where I heard there are Henslow's Sparrows. I didn't see or hear any but there were a few Bachman's Sparrows. I also saw a few juvenile Redheaded Woodpeckers. There were lots of pitcher plants growing and many Common Wood Nymphs and Palamedes butterflies. The only warblers were Pine Warbler and Common Yellowthroat. I saw one Blue Grosbeak.
Tuesday, July 31, 2007, I went to Cherry Grove Park with John. We found some Painted Buntings in the trees there and then John told me about a new park down the road from the boat launch, Heritage Shores Nature Preserve. This park just opened in January 2007, an oasis in a sea of development that is North Myrtle Beach. It had great boardwalks over the marsh, many exhibits and picnic tables, and showed great potential as a fall migrant trap. We heard Clapper Rails calling from the marsh and saw Little Blue Heron, lots of Mockingbirds and Cardinals and Egrets. A Gull-billed Tern flew by and we saw one Seaside Sparrow in the marsh. An Osprey patrolled the canal.
Wednesday, August 1, 2007, I again checked the Heritage Shores Nature Preserve in Cherry Grove. There was a Tri-colored Heron right at the entrance. Many birds were flying up the channel headed toward Waites Island including Wood Stork and Glossy Ibis. I found a Great-crested Flycatcher in the trees and a Boat-tailed Grackle was perched across the canal. I decided to ride my boogie board across Hog Inlet at high tide when nobody esle would venture over to deserted Waites Island (you can walk across Hog Inlet at low tide). There was a large flock of Brown Pelicans, Laughing Gulls, and many tern species, Royal, Least, Common, Forster's, Caspian, and Sandwich. There were also Willet, Sanderling, Black-bellied Plover, Semi-palmated Plover, Western Sandpiper, American Oystercatcher, Great Egret, Black Skimmer. one Herring Gull, and one Great Black-backed Gull. It was tough boogie boarding across the channel at high tide but worth it for the solitude and flocks of birds.
Thursday, August 2, 2007, John and I drove all the way down to Brookgreen Gardens in Murell's Inlet, SC, only to find it closed until 9:30 AM. So we entered Huntington Beach and walked the causeway and the boardwalk. We saw Wood Stork, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, Tri-colored Heron, Osprey, White Ibis, Glossy Ibis, Least Tern, Forster's Tern, Royal Tern, Caspian Tern, Great Blue Heron, Lesser Yellowlegs, and one unidentified sparrow and many alligators. At the Education Center we saw two Painted Buntings and one Orchard Oriole. Then we headed over to Brookgreen. On the way out John spotted this Golden Silk Orbweaver in an oak tree. There were many Black Swallowtail butterflies. We saw one Eastern Kingbird, Brown Thrasher, Red-bellied Woodpecker, and Eastern Bluebird. There were some Blue Jays in the oak trees and we heard an Indigo Bunting singing. A Ruby-throated Hummingbird zipped by and one Black-crowned Night-heron. We went to the bird rehab center where we saw some Fulvous-whistling Ducks. We only saw one Zebra Swallowtail but it wouldn't land for a picture. There were many Eastern Lubber grasshoppers on the lawn.
On August 3, 2007 I again visited Heritage Shores Nature Preserve. The Clapper Rails were calling from the marsh but I never saw them. The Tri-colored Heron was still lurking about but there was not much else.
On the last day, August 4, 2007, I said goodbye to everyone and then drove back down to Huntington Beach State Park. I walked from the boardwalk out onto the beach. A roped off area contained the federally endangered species, Seabeach Amaranth. I walked all the way out to the jetty where I was shocked to see a family swimming in the marsh. Fortunately I found a flock of shorebirds just off the beach at the edge of the marsh prior to reaching the jetty, containing Wilson's Plover, Semi-palmated Plover, Western Sandpiper, Semi-palmated Sandpiper, and some other things. Obviously there were no birds where the idiots were swimming in the marsh. I went to the area behind the jetty which is roped off for nesting Least Terns. A large sign indicated no dogs allowed. Nevertheless, a man and his two kids walked up with an off-leash dog and proceeded to the "no dogs allowed" area and began swimming in the marsh with the dog. I was furious. Are people in SC completely retarded? I found a large flock of Black Skimmers and American Oystercatchers in the fenced off area. They are right to put an electric fence there. Too bad it didn't electrocute the family with the dog. When I got back to the entrance to the beach I found the sign for the endangered Seabeach Amaranth knocked over and one of the endangered plants trampled. A woman walked by and stomped a cigarette butt into the sand. It made me sad that people are so uncaring and so unaware about the world they live in. After resting at the picnic area I walked out to Sandpiper pond where I saw a Common Moorhen. I walked the Sandpiper trail and found flock of American Avocets on the furthest edge of the pond (this is most likely also where I contracted chiggers!!@) There was also a shorebird crouched on the far shore that I think was a Stilt Sandpiper but I could not see it very well without a scope. I saw a scruffy looking Carolina Satyr on the trail on my way back to the car. Then it was time to go back to civilization --California.
Michelle Brodie, August 13, 2007
Complete list of birds seen:
Brown Pelican, Double-crested Cormorant, Anhinga, Great Blue Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, Tricolored Heron, Green Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, White Ibis, Glossy Ibis, Wood Stork, Fulvous Whistling-Duck, Wood Duck, Mallard, Turkey Vulture, Osprey, Red-tailed Hawk, Clapper Rail, Common Moorhen, Black-bellied Plover, Wilson’s Plover, Semi-palmated Plover, Piping Plover, Killdeer, American Oystercatcher, American Avocet, Lesser Yellowlegs, Willet, Spotted Sandpiper, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, Semi-palmated Sandpiper, Western Sandpiper, Stilt Sandpiper, Short-billed Dowitcher, Laughing Gull, Ring-billed Gull, California Gull, Herring Gull, Great Black-backed Gull, Caspian Tern, Royal Tern, Sandwich Tern, Common Tern, Forster’s Tern, Least Tern, Black Skimmer, Mourning Dove, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Belted Kingfisher, Red-headed Woodpecker, Red-bellied Woodpecker, Downy Woodpecker, Northern Flicker, Eastern Wood-Pewee, Eastern Kingbird, Purple Martin, Tree Swallow, Barn Swallow, Blue Jay, American Crow, Fish Crow, Carolina Chickadee, Tufted Titmouse, White-breasted Nuthatch, Brown-headed Nuthatch, Carolina Wren, Eastern Bluebird, American Robin, Northern Mockingbird, Brown Thrasher, Pine Warbler, Common Yellowthroat, Northern Cardinal, Blue Grosbeak, Painted Bunting, Eastern Towhee, Bachman’s Sparrow, Seaside Sparrow, Dark-eyed Junco, Red-winged Blackbird, Common Grackle, Orchard Oriole, House Finch, House Sparrow
Monday, July 23, 2007
Glacier National Park, MT: July 14-22, 2007
Glacier National Park: July 14-22, 2007
Our plane arrived in Kalispell, now renamed Glacier Park International Airport, on time but they lost two of our suitcases. It was 93 degrees! We had to return to the airport five times before we finally got all our bags and picked up my brother, John, and my sister, Sharon, and were ready to head to Glacier National Park. We set up our tents at Fish Creek Campground and after finishing dinner barely had time to head over to Avalanche Lake trailhead for the four mile round trip hike. In fact, we had to hike the last mile in the dark, even though it didn’t get dark until 10:00 PM. I saw a black bear run across the trail not long after commencing. There were many Swainson’s Thrushes and Varied Thrushes singing all along the trail. The hike follows Avalanche Creek terminating at the lake where it is fed by numerous waterfalls. It’s a dramatic hike but hard to appreciate in the failing light. It was still warm enough to wear shorts when we returned back to camp.
Sunday, July 15, 2007
After breakfast at our very private campsite at Fish Creek we drove to the Sperry Chalet trailhead. The first three miles of the trail passes exclusively through forest. There were few flowers blooming; the trail was dusty and full of horse piss and droppings which none of us liked at all. We could hear Snyder Creek nearby but the trail afforded no views of it. We almost turned back we were so disappointed. In one clearing I saw a Vaux’s Swift fly by and there were more Swainson’s Thrushes and Varied Thrushes singing. After the trail crossed over the creek, it began to climb steeply up switchbacks past the Medicine Falls and then through expansive views of the high country. As the trail opened up we began to pass extensive wildflowers and butterflies including Glacier's signature plant, Bear Grass, California False-hellebore, Claytonia, Twin Flower, and lots of Birch-leaf Spiraea. While stopping for a break several people on horses passed us, one of them letting the horse stop to piss elaborately in front of us. It was disgusting and stinky. Finally into the high country we were treated to mountain vistas, multiple blooming wildflowers, Subalpine Spiraea, sulphur flower, lots of singing MacGillivray’s Warblers, Pine Siskins, Black-capped Chickadess, and many butterflies, including Mariposa Copper, Purplish Copper, Purplish Fritillary, and Acmon Blue. We arrived at the Chalet too late to make the trek up to Sperry Glacier and so after enjoying the fantastic views we turned around and headed back down the smelly horse trail. We heard an Olive-sided Flycatcher singing. Dozens of people were hiking down the trail as it was Sunday and they were concluding their stay at Sperry Chalet; this must have accounted for the abundance of horse droppings. On the way back we stopped at the bridge over Snyder Creek and cooled our throbbing feet from our 13.6 round trip hike before descending back to the car. Next we drove to Inner North Fork Road and had a shower by placing the solar shower on top of the car. As luck would have it no sooner was it my turn and I was completely naked than some idiot pulled up and started sawing down trees in the forest and putting them in his truck. Some Cedar Waxwings came and landed in a tree by the car and we found a bush full of ripe huckleberries which we ate. After the thief left everyone else had their turn and then we returned to our cute little camp at Fish Creek and fell fast asleep.
Monday, July 16, 2007
We packed up our camp gear, loaded up everything in the van and headed up Going-to-the-Sun Road. This road is one of the park highlights as it ascends dramatically up to Logan Pass at 6680 feet with dramatic views of the many waterfalls including 682 foot Bird Woman Falls. Alpine daisies, Brown-eyed Susans, and Bergamot were blooming all along the road. We drove all the way past Logan Pass to Rising Sun Campground and set up camp for the remainder of the trip. The campsite was nestled in huckleberry patches that were dripping with ripe huckleberries that John enjoyed picking and putting in his cereal in the mornings. After our camp was set up we drove to Many Glacier Road where we saw a black bear up a hillside. We parked at Swiftcurrent picnic area and headed for the Grinnell Glacier trailhead which we were extremely disappointed to find closed three miles ahead. When Sharon and I went to Glacier Park in 1999 we were unable to make it to Grinnell Glacier on account of a tremendous amount of snow on the trail with a treacherous angled snowbank making passage impossible. So it was particularly disappointing to find the trail to the glacier again closed. We decided to go ahead as far as we could. It was hot again and very hazy so that the normally incredible view back down to emerald green Grinnell Lake and the surrounding mountains was dulled. There were dozens of people on the trail making picture taking of the many butterflies challenging. We finally made it to the three mile marker where the trail was closed due to bear activity which we later learned was a carcass across the trail, and were not even able to see Grinnell Glacier just a big snow bank and a hazy view of a waterfall of melting glacier. We took our time moseying back down the trail to the car. On the way back John spotted a Dusky Grouse along the trail. Near the end of the hike we stopped by the lake and dipped our feet in the water. While resting, an Arctic Blue butterfly perched on my foot and then a Pearl Crescent butterfly landed on my shoulder and stayed there part of the way back down the trail. At the pond we saw a Rubber Boa swimming across. After our hike we decided to drive back to Logan Pass and take the Hidden Lake trail. It was late in the day but there were still people on this very popular trail. This trail is so popular in fact, that the park had to build a boardwalk all the way to the pond with the famous view back across to Reynolds Mountain reflected in the pool. American Pipits were standing in the meadow with some singing White-crowned Sparrows. Our view was dampened by the haze which still lingered in the air. But we still enjoyed the flower filled meadow. Glacier lilies were still blooming there in huge swaths along with heather, paintbrush, and many others. We saw some Big Horn Sheep browsing in the meadow. At the Hidden Lake Overlook we turned around and returned the way we came.
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
A Warbling Vireo was the first thing up and his sweet song woke us up. A Western Tanager perched in a tree during breakfast and serenaded us. We again drove to Many Glacier Road where we had planned to hike to beautiful Iceberg Lake. When we got to the entrance station we were so disappointed to learn that it too was closed due to bear activity. The ranger suggested that we try Swiftcurrent Pass so we followed her advice and were greatly rewarded by doing so. We parked at the end of Many Glacier Road and started up the Swiftcurrent Pass trail. This spectacular trail starts off flat as it passes through flower filled meadows with singing MacGillivray’s Warblers, three waterfalls, and two large lakes, Red Rock Lake and Bullhead Lake, before ascending steeply up challenging switchbacks up 2700 feet to the pass. It was still hot and hazy but we were unaware as we were dazzled by the magnificent scenery. In the meadow a MacGillivray’s Warbler popped up in a tree finally giving us a look at this elusive bird. At Bullhead Lake we saw a Moose with a calf far across the lake. We had lunch on the switchbacks near one of four streaming waterfalls. Near the pass American Pipits were singing in the meadow. When we got to Swifcurrent Pass we were very tired but John insisted that we also make the 1600 foot climb up to the lookout. I didn’t want to because it was so hazy but we trrudged up the trail anyway. While taking a break Susan spotted a raptor. As soon as I got it in my binoculars it flew off and I could make out the dark axillaries of a Prairie Falcon. We huffed and gasped for air before finally summiting for a 360 degree view of the park. What a shame it was so hazy; you could see that on a clear day it would have been an incredible view something to draw you back again and again if you ever were so lucky to have that chance. After munching on some huckleberries and snacks we started back down the steep switchbacks. Half way down the steep switchbacks I was surprised to see a White-tailed Deer with a huge rack resting under a rock. Susan got mad because she was relieving herself in the woods and I didn’t yell that Sharon was coming quickly enough. She stormed down the trail not stopping at all until back at the creek. I have never seen her hike so fast. Nearly back to the car Sharon and Susan stopped at Fisher Cap Lake, a small lake before the two main lakes, and saw a very close male moose. Just as we finished our hike a light rain began to fall. As we headed back down Many Glacier Road we came upon a traffic jam. We looked up the hillside and saw a grizzly bear with two cubs. We tried to take pictures but the ranger asked us to move on. We drove back to Rising Sun picnic area across the street from our campground and had our dinner. The picnic area was empty but it stopped raining long enough for us to have dinner. After dinner John hung his solar shower up in the men’s room and showered and then I hung it up in the women’s room and showered while Susan and Sharon waited in a long line at Rising Sun for the pay showers. We slept well after our grueling 17 mile hike with a 3500 foot elevation gain, even though it rained all night.
July 18, 2007
I wanted to hike the Belly River trail but after reading the summary John refused because horses are allowed on the trail; he didn’t want to take anymore trails with horse piss and pooh. We stopped at the brand new St. Mary Visitor Center and John asked the backcountry ranger to make a suggestion. Out in the parking lot an Osprey was on her nest with her chicks. The ranger suggested Siyeh Pass so we took her advice and drove to Siyeh Bend and parked the car. Most people walk the 11 mile hike one way ending at Sunrift Gorge and taking the shuttle back to Siyeh Bend. We intended to make it a long loop by continuing along St. Mary Lake back to the bend. We started up the trail and soon came to two large gray birds in the forest which I believe were Northern Goshawks. We were greeted with many meadows of wildflowers before starting a steep ascent up a rocky talus slope to 7750 foot Siyeh Pass with commanding alpine views. Despite the harsh conditions wildflowers were blooming along the talus slope, lousewort, St. John’s Wort, and many others. The views were amazing at the pass but it was too windy so we dropped down a bit before enjoying lunch in front of Sexton Glacier. A Gray-crowned Rosy-finch flew onto a rock nearby. After lunch we descended the pass through incredible wildflower filled fields with many butterflies, Queen Alexandria’s Sulphur, Rocky Mountain Parnassian, Milbert’s Tortoiseshell, and several species of fritillary. The views on the other side of the pass were breathtaking. As we descended three glacier fed waterfalls far below came into view. It was the kind of scene that is hard to take your eyes away from. There were many people on the trail riding our rears; I don’t know why they were in such a hurry. They didn’t stop for a butterfly, a flower, a waterfall; I don’t know why they didn’t just stay at home and ride a treadmill for pete’s sake. The end of the trail came to a redrock lined waterfall before ending at sunrift gorge where we saw a Lorquin’s Admiral right next to a White Admiral. Sharon and Susan took the shuttle back to Siyeh Bend and John and I took the St. Mary Lake Trail. John forgot his binoculars on a rock and had to run about a mile back up the trail to get them. Back on the trail first we passed uninspiring Baring Falls and then walked along St. Mary Lake with outstanding views of towering mountains in the background. We passed on St. Mary falls and continued to Deadman Falls before making the steep ascent out of Gunsight Pass trail back to Going-to-the-Sun Road where we were too exhausted to make the last 2.5 miles back to Siyeh Bend. Fortunately Sharon and Susan drove by on their way back from the store and picked us up. Sharon and Susan again stood in a long line at Rising Sun pay shower while John and I went to Sun Point picnic area and hung up the solar shower on the car. While John was completely nude a guy in a truck made two slow passes making sure to look down between the car where John was bathing. As we left we saw a man preparing to camp illegally at Sun Point. I wonder if bears were attracted by the smell of our soap and attacked the illegal camper after we left.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
I woke everybody up at 5:00 AM to give us plenty of time to drive into Canada to Waterton Lakes National Park. Shortly after going through customs I saw a Ruffed Grouse in the road so I pulled over to get some pictures. Later we stopped and saw Red-naped Sapsucker, Rufous Hummingbird, Hairy Woodpecker, Townsend’s Solitaire, Northern Flicker, and Fox Sparrow. There were many other birds but we had to go in order to catch the 9:00 AM boat across Waterton Lake to Crypt Landing where we planned to hike to Crypt Lake. Across the lake from the boat launch sits the historic Prince of Wales Hotel. The hike was horrible and I will never take it again. Because you must take a boat to get to the trailhead it basically funnels 50 people shotgun style up the trail in a long line. There is no chance to get pictures of butterflies or look at birds because if you stop to do anything 45 people will pass you and you will be stuck marching with a bunch of obnoxious people all day long which is exactly what happened. The boat company claims it is rated the number one hike in Canada but if that’s all Canada has to offer then I would prefer to continue hiking in the US. The hike made a steep ascent up past a waterfall and then through a 2.5 foot wide tunnel before ending at an uninspiring subalpine lake where we were forced to eat lunch with 40 noisy people. The only interesting thing at the lake were three species of trout, Brown, Rainbow, and Cutthroat. At the end of the hike we took a side trip to Hellroaring Canyon Falls where we again were stuck in a line of hikers on a single track trail. It was awful. Back at the boat dock we were trapped with the same 50 people waiting for the boat to pick us up. I couldn’t wait to get out of there. After the boat dropped us off we drove past the famous Prince of Wales Hotel. Susan wanted to stop inside to have high tea but then changed her mind. So we drove to the end of Redrock Canyon Road and walked out on a bridge over lovely Bauerman Creek. I had to pry everyone off of the bridge to get them to take the Blakeston Falls trail where we saw more wildflowers. We had our dinner at the picnic area there and then it was a long drive back to Rising Sun campground.
Friday, July 20, 2007
It was Susan and my fifth anniversary. I had planned a hike to Cobalt Lake in the Two Medicine Area. John was skeptical of my choice but it turned out to be the best hike of the trip in my opinion. Sharon and I had taken the hike in July 1999 but a snow storm came the night before blanketing the area and we couldn’t see much, only enough to tell that we should come back again one day. The trail started out on the south shore of Medicine Lake through wildflower-filled meadows before coming to a pond where we saw several Common Yellow-throats. Sharon and Susan stopped to look at some flowers and John was about five feet behind me when I saw a grizzly bear about 30 feet away. I had my video camera out and started filming it. It was eating something in the meadow and didn’t notice me at first. Then it looked up and looked me right in the eye. John started backing away leaving me standing there all by myself. I kept telling Sharon and Susan to come up to me because I didn’t think the bear would mess with four people. But no they just left me standing there alone right in front of the bear. Fortunately the bear decided to cross the trail instead of eating me and hopped into a pond and swam away. That is the first grizzly bear I have ever encountered on a trail; I think I would have fainted if I had been alone. There were more alpine birds along the trail, Winter Wren, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Brown Creeper, and MacGillivray’s Warbler. We took a side trail to Aster waterfall before crossing Paradise creek on a suspension bridge and then beginning a relatively gentle climb up past red and black towering Mount Rockwell. We came to another waterfall, Rockwell falls, where we stopped to have lunch. While eating, John spotted an American Dipper in the falls. After lunch we continued our climb a little more steeply. We found some ripe blueberries along the trail which we stopped to pick and eat. They were delicious. Next we passed through an ineffable wildflower display along the creek. There was one enormous patch of Lewis’s Monkeyflower and endless patches of other flowers all along the creek. The scene was indescribably beautiful. Finally we came to Cobalt Lake nestled in Paradise Peak. While cooling our feet in the clear blue lake John detected an animal he thought was a badger on the hillside on the far shore. Later we determined it was a Long-tailed Weasel. A Spotted Sandpiper was on the shore of the lake and two Hoary Marmots were running up the hillside being chased by a bird and pecked on the back. After resting a bit we turned back the way we came. I heard a warbler giving a chip note in some willows so I pished and a MacGillivray’s Warbler shot out and nearly flew into us. That night at camp I heard a Great Horned Owl hooting.
Saturday, July 21, 2007
We got up, packed up all our things, and left Rising Sun Campground. We drove back to Logan Pass and parked. It was extremely windy and cold in the parking area. We crossed the road and started the Highline Trail along the Garden Wall, a very famous section of Glacier Park with commanding views of the glacier filled alpine country with its many waterfalls, wildflowers, and butterflies. There were a few people on the trail but they were spread out and it wasn’t too bad. We soon came to some Big Horn Sheep right off the trail. Mountain Goats walked right past us. Not far down the trail I found a Pine Grosbeak perched right out in the open on a Subalpine Fir. Two more flew in and a Calliope Hummingbird also flew in while I was admiring the Grosbeak. The trail is carved out of the side of the mountain and passes through intermittent forests and then meadows. In the forested area I found two Townsend’s Warblers. At 6.8 miles we came to a spur trail that climbs 1000 feet in just 1 km. We stopped and had lunch before making this arduous climb. It was well worth the effort as it ended at a tremendous view down to Grinnell Glacier. Finally after eight years I saw Grinnell Glacier. It was extremely windy at the overlook but Susan and I found a crevice in the rocks where we were protected from the wind and could enjoy the view. While sitting admiring this ancient glacier that will one day be no more, two Calliope Hummingbirds buzzed right past our heads and over the pass. After everyone had his or her fill of this spectacular overlook we walked back down to the trail junction and on to Granite Park Chalet where people make reservations a year in advance to stay and enjoy the amazing views of Mount Gould and the Haystack. We were so tired hiking back to the car. Most people continue past Granite Park Chalet on the shorter, 4.4 mile Loop trail and take the shuttle back to their car, so we saw few people as we re-traced our steps. We stopped and soaked our tired feet in one of the many dripping pools along the way. After our hike we stopped at Avalanche Creek picnic area and had our last picnic before heading out of the park to Kalispell to the Outlaw Hotel where things went terribly wrong. We were so tired after hiking nearly 100 miles all week. But the hotel sent us from room to room every time only to find it already occupied. Finally after four tries Sharon and John got situated and everybody went to sleep. I was awoken at the ungodly hour of 5:00 AM by John telling me the shuttle did not come to pick him up. So I had to get up and drop him off at the airport. Then no sooner was I back in bed than Sharon came to have breakfast. After breakfast we went back into the park for a last leisurely walk to Rocky Point along Lake MacDonald where we saw a Red Squirrel. After taking Sharon to the airport Susan and I went back to the park again and hiked the Johns Lake Trail to Sacred Dancing Cascade where we saw some Gray Jays and some more Winter Wrens. We had intended to hike the entire loop but the bridge over McDonald Creek had been slammed into by trees during a violet flood. A Compton's Tortoiseshell was perched right on the demolished bridge: we ended our travels there and headed back to Glacier Park Airport where it was still a balmy 93 degrees. Our flight was delayed two hours due to an air traffic hold at San Francisco Airport on account of fog. As the plane passed over the glacier filled peaks of the Rocky Mountains I looked down at them in awe. These ancient remnants of the last ice age will one day be gone and with it too probably all the precious sacred places I treasure so much, destroyed by endless development and demands for housing for our burgeoning population. As the plane moved on and the mountains moved out of view, I looked down ruefully, sad to leave it behind but happy and satisfied that I'd had the wonderful opportunity to see this majestic place again.
Our plane arrived in Kalispell, now renamed Glacier Park International Airport, on time but they lost two of our suitcases. It was 93 degrees! We had to return to the airport five times before we finally got all our bags and picked up my brother, John, and my sister, Sharon, and were ready to head to Glacier National Park. We set up our tents at Fish Creek Campground and after finishing dinner barely had time to head over to Avalanche Lake trailhead for the four mile round trip hike. In fact, we had to hike the last mile in the dark, even though it didn’t get dark until 10:00 PM. I saw a black bear run across the trail not long after commencing. There were many Swainson’s Thrushes and Varied Thrushes singing all along the trail. The hike follows Avalanche Creek terminating at the lake where it is fed by numerous waterfalls. It’s a dramatic hike but hard to appreciate in the failing light. It was still warm enough to wear shorts when we returned back to camp.
Sunday, July 15, 2007
After breakfast at our very private campsite at Fish Creek we drove to the Sperry Chalet trailhead. The first three miles of the trail passes exclusively through forest. There were few flowers blooming; the trail was dusty and full of horse piss and droppings which none of us liked at all. We could hear Snyder Creek nearby but the trail afforded no views of it. We almost turned back we were so disappointed. In one clearing I saw a Vaux’s Swift fly by and there were more Swainson’s Thrushes and Varied Thrushes singing. After the trail crossed over the creek, it began to climb steeply up switchbacks past the Medicine Falls and then through expansive views of the high country. As the trail opened up we began to pass extensive wildflowers and butterflies including Glacier's signature plant, Bear Grass, California False-hellebore, Claytonia, Twin Flower, and lots of Birch-leaf Spiraea. While stopping for a break several people on horses passed us, one of them letting the horse stop to piss elaborately in front of us. It was disgusting and stinky. Finally into the high country we were treated to mountain vistas, multiple blooming wildflowers, Subalpine Spiraea, sulphur flower, lots of singing MacGillivray’s Warblers, Pine Siskins, Black-capped Chickadess, and many butterflies, including Mariposa Copper, Purplish Copper, Purplish Fritillary, and Acmon Blue. We arrived at the Chalet too late to make the trek up to Sperry Glacier and so after enjoying the fantastic views we turned around and headed back down the smelly horse trail. We heard an Olive-sided Flycatcher singing. Dozens of people were hiking down the trail as it was Sunday and they were concluding their stay at Sperry Chalet; this must have accounted for the abundance of horse droppings. On the way back we stopped at the bridge over Snyder Creek and cooled our throbbing feet from our 13.6 round trip hike before descending back to the car. Next we drove to Inner North Fork Road and had a shower by placing the solar shower on top of the car. As luck would have it no sooner was it my turn and I was completely naked than some idiot pulled up and started sawing down trees in the forest and putting them in his truck. Some Cedar Waxwings came and landed in a tree by the car and we found a bush full of ripe huckleberries which we ate. After the thief left everyone else had their turn and then we returned to our cute little camp at Fish Creek and fell fast asleep.
Monday, July 16, 2007
We packed up our camp gear, loaded up everything in the van and headed up Going-to-the-Sun Road. This road is one of the park highlights as it ascends dramatically up to Logan Pass at 6680 feet with dramatic views of the many waterfalls including 682 foot Bird Woman Falls. Alpine daisies, Brown-eyed Susans, and Bergamot were blooming all along the road. We drove all the way past Logan Pass to Rising Sun Campground and set up camp for the remainder of the trip. The campsite was nestled in huckleberry patches that were dripping with ripe huckleberries that John enjoyed picking and putting in his cereal in the mornings. After our camp was set up we drove to Many Glacier Road where we saw a black bear up a hillside. We parked at Swiftcurrent picnic area and headed for the Grinnell Glacier trailhead which we were extremely disappointed to find closed three miles ahead. When Sharon and I went to Glacier Park in 1999 we were unable to make it to Grinnell Glacier on account of a tremendous amount of snow on the trail with a treacherous angled snowbank making passage impossible. So it was particularly disappointing to find the trail to the glacier again closed. We decided to go ahead as far as we could. It was hot again and very hazy so that the normally incredible view back down to emerald green Grinnell Lake and the surrounding mountains was dulled. There were dozens of people on the trail making picture taking of the many butterflies challenging. We finally made it to the three mile marker where the trail was closed due to bear activity which we later learned was a carcass across the trail, and were not even able to see Grinnell Glacier just a big snow bank and a hazy view of a waterfall of melting glacier. We took our time moseying back down the trail to the car. On the way back John spotted a Dusky Grouse along the trail. Near the end of the hike we stopped by the lake and dipped our feet in the water. While resting, an Arctic Blue butterfly perched on my foot and then a Pearl Crescent butterfly landed on my shoulder and stayed there part of the way back down the trail. At the pond we saw a Rubber Boa swimming across. After our hike we decided to drive back to Logan Pass and take the Hidden Lake trail. It was late in the day but there were still people on this very popular trail. This trail is so popular in fact, that the park had to build a boardwalk all the way to the pond with the famous view back across to Reynolds Mountain reflected in the pool. American Pipits were standing in the meadow with some singing White-crowned Sparrows. Our view was dampened by the haze which still lingered in the air. But we still enjoyed the flower filled meadow. Glacier lilies were still blooming there in huge swaths along with heather, paintbrush, and many others. We saw some Big Horn Sheep browsing in the meadow. At the Hidden Lake Overlook we turned around and returned the way we came.
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
A Warbling Vireo was the first thing up and his sweet song woke us up. A Western Tanager perched in a tree during breakfast and serenaded us. We again drove to Many Glacier Road where we had planned to hike to beautiful Iceberg Lake. When we got to the entrance station we were so disappointed to learn that it too was closed due to bear activity. The ranger suggested that we try Swiftcurrent Pass so we followed her advice and were greatly rewarded by doing so. We parked at the end of Many Glacier Road and started up the Swiftcurrent Pass trail. This spectacular trail starts off flat as it passes through flower filled meadows with singing MacGillivray’s Warblers, three waterfalls, and two large lakes, Red Rock Lake and Bullhead Lake, before ascending steeply up challenging switchbacks up 2700 feet to the pass. It was still hot and hazy but we were unaware as we were dazzled by the magnificent scenery. In the meadow a MacGillivray’s Warbler popped up in a tree finally giving us a look at this elusive bird. At Bullhead Lake we saw a Moose with a calf far across the lake. We had lunch on the switchbacks near one of four streaming waterfalls. Near the pass American Pipits were singing in the meadow. When we got to Swifcurrent Pass we were very tired but John insisted that we also make the 1600 foot climb up to the lookout. I didn’t want to because it was so hazy but we trrudged up the trail anyway. While taking a break Susan spotted a raptor. As soon as I got it in my binoculars it flew off and I could make out the dark axillaries of a Prairie Falcon. We huffed and gasped for air before finally summiting for a 360 degree view of the park. What a shame it was so hazy; you could see that on a clear day it would have been an incredible view something to draw you back again and again if you ever were so lucky to have that chance. After munching on some huckleberries and snacks we started back down the steep switchbacks. Half way down the steep switchbacks I was surprised to see a White-tailed Deer with a huge rack resting under a rock. Susan got mad because she was relieving herself in the woods and I didn’t yell that Sharon was coming quickly enough. She stormed down the trail not stopping at all until back at the creek. I have never seen her hike so fast. Nearly back to the car Sharon and Susan stopped at Fisher Cap Lake, a small lake before the two main lakes, and saw a very close male moose. Just as we finished our hike a light rain began to fall. As we headed back down Many Glacier Road we came upon a traffic jam. We looked up the hillside and saw a grizzly bear with two cubs. We tried to take pictures but the ranger asked us to move on. We drove back to Rising Sun picnic area across the street from our campground and had our dinner. The picnic area was empty but it stopped raining long enough for us to have dinner. After dinner John hung his solar shower up in the men’s room and showered and then I hung it up in the women’s room and showered while Susan and Sharon waited in a long line at Rising Sun for the pay showers. We slept well after our grueling 17 mile hike with a 3500 foot elevation gain, even though it rained all night.
July 18, 2007
I wanted to hike the Belly River trail but after reading the summary John refused because horses are allowed on the trail; he didn’t want to take anymore trails with horse piss and pooh. We stopped at the brand new St. Mary Visitor Center and John asked the backcountry ranger to make a suggestion. Out in the parking lot an Osprey was on her nest with her chicks. The ranger suggested Siyeh Pass so we took her advice and drove to Siyeh Bend and parked the car. Most people walk the 11 mile hike one way ending at Sunrift Gorge and taking the shuttle back to Siyeh Bend. We intended to make it a long loop by continuing along St. Mary Lake back to the bend. We started up the trail and soon came to two large gray birds in the forest which I believe were Northern Goshawks. We were greeted with many meadows of wildflowers before starting a steep ascent up a rocky talus slope to 7750 foot Siyeh Pass with commanding alpine views. Despite the harsh conditions wildflowers were blooming along the talus slope, lousewort, St. John’s Wort, and many others. The views were amazing at the pass but it was too windy so we dropped down a bit before enjoying lunch in front of Sexton Glacier. A Gray-crowned Rosy-finch flew onto a rock nearby. After lunch we descended the pass through incredible wildflower filled fields with many butterflies, Queen Alexandria’s Sulphur, Rocky Mountain Parnassian, Milbert’s Tortoiseshell, and several species of fritillary. The views on the other side of the pass were breathtaking. As we descended three glacier fed waterfalls far below came into view. It was the kind of scene that is hard to take your eyes away from. There were many people on the trail riding our rears; I don’t know why they were in such a hurry. They didn’t stop for a butterfly, a flower, a waterfall; I don’t know why they didn’t just stay at home and ride a treadmill for pete’s sake. The end of the trail came to a redrock lined waterfall before ending at sunrift gorge where we saw a Lorquin’s Admiral right next to a White Admiral. Sharon and Susan took the shuttle back to Siyeh Bend and John and I took the St. Mary Lake Trail. John forgot his binoculars on a rock and had to run about a mile back up the trail to get them. Back on the trail first we passed uninspiring Baring Falls and then walked along St. Mary Lake with outstanding views of towering mountains in the background. We passed on St. Mary falls and continued to Deadman Falls before making the steep ascent out of Gunsight Pass trail back to Going-to-the-Sun Road where we were too exhausted to make the last 2.5 miles back to Siyeh Bend. Fortunately Sharon and Susan drove by on their way back from the store and picked us up. Sharon and Susan again stood in a long line at Rising Sun pay shower while John and I went to Sun Point picnic area and hung up the solar shower on the car. While John was completely nude a guy in a truck made two slow passes making sure to look down between the car where John was bathing. As we left we saw a man preparing to camp illegally at Sun Point. I wonder if bears were attracted by the smell of our soap and attacked the illegal camper after we left.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
I woke everybody up at 5:00 AM to give us plenty of time to drive into Canada to Waterton Lakes National Park. Shortly after going through customs I saw a Ruffed Grouse in the road so I pulled over to get some pictures. Later we stopped and saw Red-naped Sapsucker, Rufous Hummingbird, Hairy Woodpecker, Townsend’s Solitaire, Northern Flicker, and Fox Sparrow. There were many other birds but we had to go in order to catch the 9:00 AM boat across Waterton Lake to Crypt Landing where we planned to hike to Crypt Lake. Across the lake from the boat launch sits the historic Prince of Wales Hotel. The hike was horrible and I will never take it again. Because you must take a boat to get to the trailhead it basically funnels 50 people shotgun style up the trail in a long line. There is no chance to get pictures of butterflies or look at birds because if you stop to do anything 45 people will pass you and you will be stuck marching with a bunch of obnoxious people all day long which is exactly what happened. The boat company claims it is rated the number one hike in Canada but if that’s all Canada has to offer then I would prefer to continue hiking in the US. The hike made a steep ascent up past a waterfall and then through a 2.5 foot wide tunnel before ending at an uninspiring subalpine lake where we were forced to eat lunch with 40 noisy people. The only interesting thing at the lake were three species of trout, Brown, Rainbow, and Cutthroat. At the end of the hike we took a side trip to Hellroaring Canyon Falls where we again were stuck in a line of hikers on a single track trail. It was awful. Back at the boat dock we were trapped with the same 50 people waiting for the boat to pick us up. I couldn’t wait to get out of there. After the boat dropped us off we drove past the famous Prince of Wales Hotel. Susan wanted to stop inside to have high tea but then changed her mind. So we drove to the end of Redrock Canyon Road and walked out on a bridge over lovely Bauerman Creek. I had to pry everyone off of the bridge to get them to take the Blakeston Falls trail where we saw more wildflowers. We had our dinner at the picnic area there and then it was a long drive back to Rising Sun campground.
Friday, July 20, 2007
It was Susan and my fifth anniversary. I had planned a hike to Cobalt Lake in the Two Medicine Area. John was skeptical of my choice but it turned out to be the best hike of the trip in my opinion. Sharon and I had taken the hike in July 1999 but a snow storm came the night before blanketing the area and we couldn’t see much, only enough to tell that we should come back again one day. The trail started out on the south shore of Medicine Lake through wildflower-filled meadows before coming to a pond where we saw several Common Yellow-throats. Sharon and Susan stopped to look at some flowers and John was about five feet behind me when I saw a grizzly bear about 30 feet away. I had my video camera out and started filming it. It was eating something in the meadow and didn’t notice me at first. Then it looked up and looked me right in the eye. John started backing away leaving me standing there all by myself. I kept telling Sharon and Susan to come up to me because I didn’t think the bear would mess with four people. But no they just left me standing there alone right in front of the bear. Fortunately the bear decided to cross the trail instead of eating me and hopped into a pond and swam away. That is the first grizzly bear I have ever encountered on a trail; I think I would have fainted if I had been alone. There were more alpine birds along the trail, Winter Wren, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Brown Creeper, and MacGillivray’s Warbler. We took a side trail to Aster waterfall before crossing Paradise creek on a suspension bridge and then beginning a relatively gentle climb up past red and black towering Mount Rockwell. We came to another waterfall, Rockwell falls, where we stopped to have lunch. While eating, John spotted an American Dipper in the falls. After lunch we continued our climb a little more steeply. We found some ripe blueberries along the trail which we stopped to pick and eat. They were delicious. Next we passed through an ineffable wildflower display along the creek. There was one enormous patch of Lewis’s Monkeyflower and endless patches of other flowers all along the creek. The scene was indescribably beautiful. Finally we came to Cobalt Lake nestled in Paradise Peak. While cooling our feet in the clear blue lake John detected an animal he thought was a badger on the hillside on the far shore. Later we determined it was a Long-tailed Weasel. A Spotted Sandpiper was on the shore of the lake and two Hoary Marmots were running up the hillside being chased by a bird and pecked on the back. After resting a bit we turned back the way we came. I heard a warbler giving a chip note in some willows so I pished and a MacGillivray’s Warbler shot out and nearly flew into us. That night at camp I heard a Great Horned Owl hooting.
Saturday, July 21, 2007
We got up, packed up all our things, and left Rising Sun Campground. We drove back to Logan Pass and parked. It was extremely windy and cold in the parking area. We crossed the road and started the Highline Trail along the Garden Wall, a very famous section of Glacier Park with commanding views of the glacier filled alpine country with its many waterfalls, wildflowers, and butterflies. There were a few people on the trail but they were spread out and it wasn’t too bad. We soon came to some Big Horn Sheep right off the trail. Mountain Goats walked right past us. Not far down the trail I found a Pine Grosbeak perched right out in the open on a Subalpine Fir. Two more flew in and a Calliope Hummingbird also flew in while I was admiring the Grosbeak. The trail is carved out of the side of the mountain and passes through intermittent forests and then meadows. In the forested area I found two Townsend’s Warblers. At 6.8 miles we came to a spur trail that climbs 1000 feet in just 1 km. We stopped and had lunch before making this arduous climb. It was well worth the effort as it ended at a tremendous view down to Grinnell Glacier. Finally after eight years I saw Grinnell Glacier. It was extremely windy at the overlook but Susan and I found a crevice in the rocks where we were protected from the wind and could enjoy the view. While sitting admiring this ancient glacier that will one day be no more, two Calliope Hummingbirds buzzed right past our heads and over the pass. After everyone had his or her fill of this spectacular overlook we walked back down to the trail junction and on to Granite Park Chalet where people make reservations a year in advance to stay and enjoy the amazing views of Mount Gould and the Haystack. We were so tired hiking back to the car. Most people continue past Granite Park Chalet on the shorter, 4.4 mile Loop trail and take the shuttle back to their car, so we saw few people as we re-traced our steps. We stopped and soaked our tired feet in one of the many dripping pools along the way. After our hike we stopped at Avalanche Creek picnic area and had our last picnic before heading out of the park to Kalispell to the Outlaw Hotel where things went terribly wrong. We were so tired after hiking nearly 100 miles all week. But the hotel sent us from room to room every time only to find it already occupied. Finally after four tries Sharon and John got situated and everybody went to sleep. I was awoken at the ungodly hour of 5:00 AM by John telling me the shuttle did not come to pick him up. So I had to get up and drop him off at the airport. Then no sooner was I back in bed than Sharon came to have breakfast. After breakfast we went back into the park for a last leisurely walk to Rocky Point along Lake MacDonald where we saw a Red Squirrel. After taking Sharon to the airport Susan and I went back to the park again and hiked the Johns Lake Trail to Sacred Dancing Cascade where we saw some Gray Jays and some more Winter Wrens. We had intended to hike the entire loop but the bridge over McDonald Creek had been slammed into by trees during a violet flood. A Compton's Tortoiseshell was perched right on the demolished bridge: we ended our travels there and headed back to Glacier Park Airport where it was still a balmy 93 degrees. Our flight was delayed two hours due to an air traffic hold at San Francisco Airport on account of fog. As the plane passed over the glacier filled peaks of the Rocky Mountains I looked down at them in awe. These ancient remnants of the last ice age will one day be gone and with it too probably all the precious sacred places I treasure so much, destroyed by endless development and demands for housing for our burgeoning population. As the plane moved on and the mountains moved out of view, I looked down ruefully, sad to leave it behind but happy and satisfied that I'd had the wonderful opportunity to see this majestic place again.
Saturday, July 07, 2007
Eastern Sierra: June 29-July 4, 2007
Susan had food poisoning on Thursday and still felt ill Friday, so I had to drive all the way from her office to our little primitive campsite at Mono Craters myself, June 29. We arrived around 10:30 PM and after admiring the planets Venus, Saturn, and Jupiter, that were regaling the sky all weekend, and setting up the tent, fell fast asleep. I woke in the night and heard a Great Horned Owl hooting.
Saturday, June 30, 2007, Susan felt weak from the food poisoning so I planned an easy hike to Glass Creek Meadow in the Inyo National Forest. It is only a 4 mile round trip hike with little elevation gain. After breakfast we drove to the trailhead which is off of Highway 395 south of Mono Lake at the turn off for Obsidian Dome, a giant remnant of an ancient volcano with a large lava flow. Pumice and obsidian were everywhere. We only saw a couple of people during our hike but lots of birds, butterflies, and wildflowers. The hike has one hill to make it up right after the trailhead as it passes a small waterfall on Glass Creek. Then the trail flattens out as it follows along the creek to the meadow. As soon as we started we heard Warbling Vireo, Western Wood Pewee, Yellow-rumped Warbler, and Cassin’s Finch. There were Sulphur flowers and Brewer’s Lupine all along the first part of the hike. At the first forested area we came across a flock of Red Crossbills giving their kip kip call and eating pine cone seeds which they live off of in their nomadic lives. There were many Clark’s Nutcrackers giving their noisy vocalizations. After the forested area the trail opened up to a field of pumice sand before finally arriving at the flower filled meadow. The creek runs through the meadow making it lush with wildflowers and butterflies which were everywhere. A whole section of the meadow was a field of Meadow Penstemon. In the wet mud were many Blue butterflies, Melissa Blue, Western Tailed-blue, Anna's Blue, and other blues we could not identify as well as a Sulphur butterfly, Lustrous Copper, and many Western Tiger Swallowtail butterflies. We sat on a log enjoying the meadow for a while with its ring of trees and backdrop of the 10,000 foot high San Joaquin Mountain but there were too many biting flies so we decided to head back. On the way out of the meadow we heard Mountain Quail and Sooty Grouse calling from the forest. As I was admiring a Pine Siskin through my binoculars somehow an insect got between my left pinkie finger and my binoculars and stung me. It must have left a stinger in my finger because it swelled to the size of a sausage and caused unbelievable pain in my hand. Near the creek we saw a Gray Flycatcher, Mountain Chickadee, Townsend’s Solitaire, and White-breasted and Red-breasted Nuthatch. We only saw two people on the trail. Before leaving we had lunch at a picnic area near Obsidian Dome then we drove the long drive to the Ancient Bristlecone Forest near the tiny town of Big Pine, CA. After winding up the White Mountains where we saw a Rufous Hummingbird, we pulled into the Shulman Grove and walked the Discovery Trail which tells all about how Professor Shulman discovered the oldest tree in the world in this grove of gorgeous twisted old Bristlecones in 1952. The tree is over 4000 years old but the Forest Service won’t tell you which one it is for fear that some lunatic will cut it down. No matter—they are all gorgeous old trees fantastic to look at. There were the tiniest most minute little blue butterflies on the Discovery Trail and dozens of Mountain Bluebirds. After hiking the one mile loop we decided to drive to the Patriarch Grove further up the White Mountains. This grove is 12 miles further up and at 11,000 feet instead of the 10,000 feet we were at in Shulman Grove. The road turns into dirt almost immediately and is very bad and full of large rocks. I was amazed that people were driving their passenger cars on it and wondering why they were not concerned about flat tires. We finally got to the Patriarch Grove and walked the two short nature trails admiring the largest Bristlecone in the world and some other beauties before driving back down the awful road. As we proceeded down this horrible dirt road I heard an upsetting sound of air escaping. I pulled into the nearest pull off and was horrified to see my rear left tire completely flat. Worse than that the hatch wouldn’t open so I had to remove our cooler and all our camp gear and crawl into the back of the car to get the jack out. As we were contemplating where to put the jack two ladies in a US Forest Service truck stopped and asked if we needed help. Susan told them that she had never changed a tire before and yes could they help. I most certainly have changed many tires in my day but was not looking forward to kneeling in the sage to change one. After a couple of failed attempts at placing the jack we finally got the tire changed and the nice ladies left but not before several cars passed us, I am sure joking the whole way back about how many ladies it took to change a tire. We didn’t get back to our little campsite at Mono Craters until 10:30 PM leaving no time to do anything but crawl into the tent.
Sunday, July 1, before I even arose I could hear the Pinyon Jays on the move through our camp site. My pinkie was hurting a lot each time I used my hand the pain darting through my hand. We drove north of Lee Vining to the turn off for Green Creek which is also a dirt road. I was worried because we had a flat for a spare so I drove as carefully as possible and with the window down also listened for birds. The road passes through sage flats before arriving at the Green Creek Campground in the Toyaibe National Forest. In the sage flats we saw lots of desert birds such as Sage Thrasher, Brewer’s Sparrow, and Green-tailed Towhee and prickly poppy with its beautiful white flowers lined the road. This trail is 11.6 miles round trip to the Hoover Lakes in the Hoover Wilderness. We took our time on this beautiful trail as there is much to look at. First of all, wildflowers line the trail from the first step to the last. At first we passed through a field of Richardson’s Geranium and a lot of Swamp Onion along the creek. In addition to all the great flowers the whole trail was full of birds and bird song. We saw all the Sierra Mountain specialty birds, Pine Siskin, Olive-sided Flycatcher, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Hermit Thrush, Western Tanager, Clark’s Nutcracker, Violet-green Swallow, Red-breasted Sapsucker, Brown Creeper, Raven, and the ever present Yellow-rumped Warbler. We stopped many times to admire the many butterflies as well-- Clodious Parnassian, Pine White, Western Tiger Swallowtail, Bosduval’s Blue, some type of Fritillary (possibly Nokomis), and many others. The first lake the trail comes to is East Lake which is stocked with trout and consequently attracts a lot of anglers. We had lunch beside the lake and Susan spotted a Golden Trout near the water’s edge. We continued up the trail and I noted that the only mountain bird we had not found was a Williamson’s Sapsucker and how I wish Susan would conjure one for me. Next we came to lovely Green Lake which is actually bright blue and surrounded by gorgeous red and black mountains. After leaving this little gem we ran into a US Forest Service worker, Scott, who talked our heads off. Poor guy must not have anyone to talk to. He was hiking with a six foot saw to cut trees that were blocking the trail. I was amazed that they cut those huge trees with a saw. He had just finished cutting a huge White bark pine and was on his way to the next blockage. He told us his life story about how he backpacked for three days when he was just fourteen on the Pacific Crest Trail and just fell in love with it and has been outdoors ever since apparently not running into many people along the way with whom to converse. After Green Lake we passed Gilman Lake and little Nutter Lake before the trail opened up and we could see Burro Pass high above us before finally crossing a hairy passage over Green Creek to Hoover Lakes. At Hoover Lake we found a few Gray-crowned Rosy Finches and White-crowned Sparrows, a subspecies of which lives high in the mountains, and an Edith’s Checkerspot butterfly. We barely had time to enjoy the fantastic view before we had to turn back. As we again approached Blue Lake I saw a Williamson’s Sapsucker flying away. I thought that another one was behind a pine tree so I told Susan to wait while I walked around it. As I got to the back of the tree which was very near the trail I heard babies crying inside a tiny woodpecker hole. Susan and I sat on a rock nearby and waited for the mother to come back to feed them. Soon she came and I was able to watch her feeding her little Williamson's Sapsucker chicks which would protrude slightly from the hole. It was very thrilling for me. Scott was just a few feet away completely oblivious sawing away at a gigantic fallen pine tree. When we had our fill we waved goodbye to Scott and headed back down the trailhead. We were exhausted at times feeling like we couldn’t make it. We had taken so long standing taking pictures of the numerous flowers, birds, and butterflies that our little 11.6 mile hike was taking us a total of over eight hours. I stopped to dip my throbbing pinkie in a creek and when I bent down saw a Yosemite Toad in the water. When we finally made it back to the car my body ached from head to toe. We drove south on Highway 395 to Mono County Park where we planned to have dinner. It was very windy and unpleasant at the picnic area. We walked out on the boardwalk and saw hundreds of Wilson’s Phalaropes on Mono Lake where they congregate and breed this time of year. After dinner we drove back to our campsite and had a much needed shower with my solar shower. The owl came again during the night.
Monday, July 2, 2007, the Pinyon Jays woke me as usual with their noisy chatter. They are very gregarious. When I got out of the tent a Common Nighthawk was circling overhead. After breakfast we drove just north of Lee Vining on Highway 395 to the famous and wonderful Lundy Canyon, one of the best hikes in all of the Sierra. This amazing hike follows Lundy Creek as it meanders over three waterfalls, passes numerous wildflowers, and many birds and butterflies. I wanted to get a picture of a Calliope Hummingbird which is fairly common in the Sierra but of the six or seven we saw none would stay put long enough for me to photograph, so no pictures of this darling little hummer. After the first waterfall we walked through a field of Monk’s Hood mixed in with yarrow, stickseed, Pride of the Mountain, Swamp Onion, Monument Plant, and Scarlet Gilia. We took the trail to the last waterfall at the scree which goes up to Helen Lake in 20 Lakes Basin but we decided not to climb it this year and turned back instead. The scree was full of Colville’s Columbine, Western Rose root, White heather, Red Heather, Rock Fringe, Indian Paintbrush, Meadow Paintbrush, and Applegate Paintbrush. At the second waterfall we stopped to have lunch. As we were eating a MacGillivray’s Warbler started singing. I was thinking to myself, “hmm that MacGillivray’s is very close” when suddenly it perched on top of a pine tree right in front of us. This was pretty unusual for this elusive bird. A Calliope also zipped by. After lunch we headed back down the mountain and at the beaver pond we found a Red-breasted Sapsucker and an American Dipper. We stopped at the Mono Lake Visitor Center on the way back and saw Cliff Swallows feeding their chicks right on the side of the center. One poor baby had fallen out and was just sitting on the ground I’m sure to be eaten by a hawk or other predator later. We had dinner at the June Lake picnic area and then retired to our cute little private campsite. I was sound asleep when a pack of coyotes began to howl. I was terrified because the alpha sounded just like a crazed person. Here we were two ladies camping alone in the wilderness with a crazy person on the loose. Weird how your mind conjures the craziest thoughts sometimes—it was just coyotes.
Tuesday, July 3, 2007 we drove a short way to the June Lake Loop off of Highway 395 to the Walker Lake turnoff which we took up and up 10 miles to the Walker Lake Trailhead in the Inyo National Forest. I drove slowly on the dirt road on account of the flat spare and in doing so saw a sapsucker flying. We stopped and were treated to a Red-breasted Sapsucker feeding her chicks. On this incredibly beautiful trail which is seven miles roundtrip to lower Sardine Lake we only saw two people all day. The trail first drops down several hundred feet to Walker Lake another stocked lake which attracts hordes of anglers before flattening out through a meadow. There were very few wildflowers at this low elevation. However, the trail is gruesome in its intense elevation gain thereafter gaining 2700 feet in just three miles. We were gasping for breath as we ascended but were rewarded with awesome views back down to Walker Lake and Mono Lake in the distance. As we gained elevation we started to pass through more and more wildflowers and encountered many birds. After ascending about half way we came to an aspen grove that was full of birds one of which had us stumped. It sounded like a Cordilleran flycatcher but that would be rare. I never could locate it and just held my camera up to record its strange song instead. Upon further review I can only surmise that it is some strange song of a Gray Flycatcher and not the much rarer (for this area) Cordilleran. Also in the aspen grove we saw Orange-crowned Warbler, Yellow Warbler, Wilson’s Warbler, and many other birds. We were running out of gas when we finally came to a waterfall at the top of which was pretty Lower Sardine Lake. We had lunch beside the lake and then continued around the lake where a creek flowed into it. The creek was lined with willows and fields of wildflowers, Davidson's Penstemon, columbine, yarrow, paintbrush, larkspur, monkeyflower, cinquefoil, St. John’s Wort, Swamp Onion, and many others. We were tired but decided to continue up to Upper Sardine Lake. As we continued to gain elevation we saw more wildflowers shieldleaf, Labrador tea, Elephant’s Head, one lone Timberline Phacelia, Western Roseroot, Wooly Sunflower, Oval-leaved Eriogonum, Meadow Penstemon, Davidson’s Penstemon, Bridge’s Penstemon, Rydberg's Penstemon, and on and on. The flowers were attracting many butterflies as well and we saw Mourning Cloak, Northern Cloudywing, Milbert’s Tortoiseshell, Sara’s Orangetip, Western Tailed-blue, Melissa Blue, Lupine Blue, Blue Copper, Sierra Sulphur, Field Crescent, some type of Fritillary, Clodious Parnassian, and a checkerspot. After wetting our heads in the lake we headed back down the trail. We stopped at a waterfall and found an American Dipper in the water. At the end of this wonderful hike we decided to just go back to our campsite for the rest of the evening. It was very hot that day and the solar shower scalded us as we showered. We then enjoyed a relaxing evening with the Pinyon Jays, Common Nighthawks, and Violet-green Swallows, and as evening fell bats and stars and planets. During the night the coyote pack returned and howled but this time exhaustion took over and I slept through it.
Wednesday, July 4, 2007, we got up early and broke camp. We stopped at the South Tufa Reserve at Mono Lake and walked down to the water. A California Ground Squirrel sunned on a rock. There were Sage Thrasher, Vesper Sparrow, Brewer’s Sparrow, California Gull, Common Nighthawk, and Violet-green Swallows to enjoy on the boardwalk plus the outstanding views of tufa in the morning sun. Next we drove up Tioga Pass into Yosemite National Park to the Porcupine Creek trailhead on Tioga Road. We were planning to take it 14 miles round trip to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls before driving back to San Francisco. In order to expedite the hike I left my binoculars behind and only carried my video camera, water, and lunch. The trail was harder than I remembered it going down quite a bit to the falls. Along the way I saw the back side of a Black-backed Woodpecker flying away and Susan spotted a Black-tailed Deer. There were numerous fritillary butterflies wichh I merely admired in my haste but did stop long enough to get a photo of this Pine Drop plant. At about the half way mark the trail crossed over a creek which was full of flowers and many different fritillary butterflies. I was surprised to see Western Azalea still blooming and found one beautiful Alpine Lily. Near the falls we also saw another Williamson’s Sapsucker and a Red-breasted Sapsucker right on the trail. As we approached the waterfall we were treated to magnificent views of the valley and Half Dome. The granite was dotted with Stone Crop. We descended down to the falls, over the creek, and up to the viewpoint. There was still a little bit of water flowing in the upper falls but it was hard to see from the fence. It was time to hussle back anyway. It was tough hiking uphill most of the way at that clip. I stopped only to film two White-headed Woodpeckers and take a photo of a Police Car Moth at the creek. It was very hot and dusty but we made it back to the car in just 5 hours 50 minutes—not bad for an old lady. It was the hottest day of the year it turned out, topping 105 degrees in Oakdale but we soon left that behind as we returned to my home in the foggy city. I hate the fog and I can't wait to get back to the mountains which will be very soon but not soon enough.
Saturday, June 30, 2007, Susan felt weak from the food poisoning so I planned an easy hike to Glass Creek Meadow in the Inyo National Forest. It is only a 4 mile round trip hike with little elevation gain. After breakfast we drove to the trailhead which is off of Highway 395 south of Mono Lake at the turn off for Obsidian Dome, a giant remnant of an ancient volcano with a large lava flow. Pumice and obsidian were everywhere. We only saw a couple of people during our hike but lots of birds, butterflies, and wildflowers. The hike has one hill to make it up right after the trailhead as it passes a small waterfall on Glass Creek. Then the trail flattens out as it follows along the creek to the meadow. As soon as we started we heard Warbling Vireo, Western Wood Pewee, Yellow-rumped Warbler, and Cassin’s Finch. There were Sulphur flowers and Brewer’s Lupine all along the first part of the hike. At the first forested area we came across a flock of Red Crossbills giving their kip kip call and eating pine cone seeds which they live off of in their nomadic lives. There were many Clark’s Nutcrackers giving their noisy vocalizations. After the forested area the trail opened up to a field of pumice sand before finally arriving at the flower filled meadow. The creek runs through the meadow making it lush with wildflowers and butterflies which were everywhere. A whole section of the meadow was a field of Meadow Penstemon. In the wet mud were many Blue butterflies, Melissa Blue, Western Tailed-blue, Anna's Blue, and other blues we could not identify as well as a Sulphur butterfly, Lustrous Copper, and many Western Tiger Swallowtail butterflies. We sat on a log enjoying the meadow for a while with its ring of trees and backdrop of the 10,000 foot high San Joaquin Mountain but there were too many biting flies so we decided to head back. On the way out of the meadow we heard Mountain Quail and Sooty Grouse calling from the forest. As I was admiring a Pine Siskin through my binoculars somehow an insect got between my left pinkie finger and my binoculars and stung me. It must have left a stinger in my finger because it swelled to the size of a sausage and caused unbelievable pain in my hand. Near the creek we saw a Gray Flycatcher, Mountain Chickadee, Townsend’s Solitaire, and White-breasted and Red-breasted Nuthatch. We only saw two people on the trail. Before leaving we had lunch at a picnic area near Obsidian Dome then we drove the long drive to the Ancient Bristlecone Forest near the tiny town of Big Pine, CA. After winding up the White Mountains where we saw a Rufous Hummingbird, we pulled into the Shulman Grove and walked the Discovery Trail which tells all about how Professor Shulman discovered the oldest tree in the world in this grove of gorgeous twisted old Bristlecones in 1952. The tree is over 4000 years old but the Forest Service won’t tell you which one it is for fear that some lunatic will cut it down. No matter—they are all gorgeous old trees fantastic to look at. There were the tiniest most minute little blue butterflies on the Discovery Trail and dozens of Mountain Bluebirds. After hiking the one mile loop we decided to drive to the Patriarch Grove further up the White Mountains. This grove is 12 miles further up and at 11,000 feet instead of the 10,000 feet we were at in Shulman Grove. The road turns into dirt almost immediately and is very bad and full of large rocks. I was amazed that people were driving their passenger cars on it and wondering why they were not concerned about flat tires. We finally got to the Patriarch Grove and walked the two short nature trails admiring the largest Bristlecone in the world and some other beauties before driving back down the awful road. As we proceeded down this horrible dirt road I heard an upsetting sound of air escaping. I pulled into the nearest pull off and was horrified to see my rear left tire completely flat. Worse than that the hatch wouldn’t open so I had to remove our cooler and all our camp gear and crawl into the back of the car to get the jack out. As we were contemplating where to put the jack two ladies in a US Forest Service truck stopped and asked if we needed help. Susan told them that she had never changed a tire before and yes could they help. I most certainly have changed many tires in my day but was not looking forward to kneeling in the sage to change one. After a couple of failed attempts at placing the jack we finally got the tire changed and the nice ladies left but not before several cars passed us, I am sure joking the whole way back about how many ladies it took to change a tire. We didn’t get back to our little campsite at Mono Craters until 10:30 PM leaving no time to do anything but crawl into the tent.
Sunday, July 1, before I even arose I could hear the Pinyon Jays on the move through our camp site. My pinkie was hurting a lot each time I used my hand the pain darting through my hand. We drove north of Lee Vining to the turn off for Green Creek which is also a dirt road. I was worried because we had a flat for a spare so I drove as carefully as possible and with the window down also listened for birds. The road passes through sage flats before arriving at the Green Creek Campground in the Toyaibe National Forest. In the sage flats we saw lots of desert birds such as Sage Thrasher, Brewer’s Sparrow, and Green-tailed Towhee and prickly poppy with its beautiful white flowers lined the road. This trail is 11.6 miles round trip to the Hoover Lakes in the Hoover Wilderness. We took our time on this beautiful trail as there is much to look at. First of all, wildflowers line the trail from the first step to the last. At first we passed through a field of Richardson’s Geranium and a lot of Swamp Onion along the creek. In addition to all the great flowers the whole trail was full of birds and bird song. We saw all the Sierra Mountain specialty birds, Pine Siskin, Olive-sided Flycatcher, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Hermit Thrush, Western Tanager, Clark’s Nutcracker, Violet-green Swallow, Red-breasted Sapsucker, Brown Creeper, Raven, and the ever present Yellow-rumped Warbler. We stopped many times to admire the many butterflies as well-- Clodious Parnassian, Pine White, Western Tiger Swallowtail, Bosduval’s Blue, some type of Fritillary (possibly Nokomis), and many others. The first lake the trail comes to is East Lake which is stocked with trout and consequently attracts a lot of anglers. We had lunch beside the lake and Susan spotted a Golden Trout near the water’s edge. We continued up the trail and I noted that the only mountain bird we had not found was a Williamson’s Sapsucker and how I wish Susan would conjure one for me. Next we came to lovely Green Lake which is actually bright blue and surrounded by gorgeous red and black mountains. After leaving this little gem we ran into a US Forest Service worker, Scott, who talked our heads off. Poor guy must not have anyone to talk to. He was hiking with a six foot saw to cut trees that were blocking the trail. I was amazed that they cut those huge trees with a saw. He had just finished cutting a huge White bark pine and was on his way to the next blockage. He told us his life story about how he backpacked for three days when he was just fourteen on the Pacific Crest Trail and just fell in love with it and has been outdoors ever since apparently not running into many people along the way with whom to converse. After Green Lake we passed Gilman Lake and little Nutter Lake before the trail opened up and we could see Burro Pass high above us before finally crossing a hairy passage over Green Creek to Hoover Lakes. At Hoover Lake we found a few Gray-crowned Rosy Finches and White-crowned Sparrows, a subspecies of which lives high in the mountains, and an Edith’s Checkerspot butterfly. We barely had time to enjoy the fantastic view before we had to turn back. As we again approached Blue Lake I saw a Williamson’s Sapsucker flying away. I thought that another one was behind a pine tree so I told Susan to wait while I walked around it. As I got to the back of the tree which was very near the trail I heard babies crying inside a tiny woodpecker hole. Susan and I sat on a rock nearby and waited for the mother to come back to feed them. Soon she came and I was able to watch her feeding her little Williamson's Sapsucker chicks which would protrude slightly from the hole. It was very thrilling for me. Scott was just a few feet away completely oblivious sawing away at a gigantic fallen pine tree. When we had our fill we waved goodbye to Scott and headed back down the trailhead. We were exhausted at times feeling like we couldn’t make it. We had taken so long standing taking pictures of the numerous flowers, birds, and butterflies that our little 11.6 mile hike was taking us a total of over eight hours. I stopped to dip my throbbing pinkie in a creek and when I bent down saw a Yosemite Toad in the water. When we finally made it back to the car my body ached from head to toe. We drove south on Highway 395 to Mono County Park where we planned to have dinner. It was very windy and unpleasant at the picnic area. We walked out on the boardwalk and saw hundreds of Wilson’s Phalaropes on Mono Lake where they congregate and breed this time of year. After dinner we drove back to our campsite and had a much needed shower with my solar shower. The owl came again during the night.
Monday, July 2, 2007, the Pinyon Jays woke me as usual with their noisy chatter. They are very gregarious. When I got out of the tent a Common Nighthawk was circling overhead. After breakfast we drove just north of Lee Vining on Highway 395 to the famous and wonderful Lundy Canyon, one of the best hikes in all of the Sierra. This amazing hike follows Lundy Creek as it meanders over three waterfalls, passes numerous wildflowers, and many birds and butterflies. I wanted to get a picture of a Calliope Hummingbird which is fairly common in the Sierra but of the six or seven we saw none would stay put long enough for me to photograph, so no pictures of this darling little hummer. After the first waterfall we walked through a field of Monk’s Hood mixed in with yarrow, stickseed, Pride of the Mountain, Swamp Onion, Monument Plant, and Scarlet Gilia. We took the trail to the last waterfall at the scree which goes up to Helen Lake in 20 Lakes Basin but we decided not to climb it this year and turned back instead. The scree was full of Colville’s Columbine, Western Rose root, White heather, Red Heather, Rock Fringe, Indian Paintbrush, Meadow Paintbrush, and Applegate Paintbrush. At the second waterfall we stopped to have lunch. As we were eating a MacGillivray’s Warbler started singing. I was thinking to myself, “hmm that MacGillivray’s is very close” when suddenly it perched on top of a pine tree right in front of us. This was pretty unusual for this elusive bird. A Calliope also zipped by. After lunch we headed back down the mountain and at the beaver pond we found a Red-breasted Sapsucker and an American Dipper. We stopped at the Mono Lake Visitor Center on the way back and saw Cliff Swallows feeding their chicks right on the side of the center. One poor baby had fallen out and was just sitting on the ground I’m sure to be eaten by a hawk or other predator later. We had dinner at the June Lake picnic area and then retired to our cute little private campsite. I was sound asleep when a pack of coyotes began to howl. I was terrified because the alpha sounded just like a crazed person. Here we were two ladies camping alone in the wilderness with a crazy person on the loose. Weird how your mind conjures the craziest thoughts sometimes—it was just coyotes.
Tuesday, July 3, 2007 we drove a short way to the June Lake Loop off of Highway 395 to the Walker Lake turnoff which we took up and up 10 miles to the Walker Lake Trailhead in the Inyo National Forest. I drove slowly on the dirt road on account of the flat spare and in doing so saw a sapsucker flying. We stopped and were treated to a Red-breasted Sapsucker feeding her chicks. On this incredibly beautiful trail which is seven miles roundtrip to lower Sardine Lake we only saw two people all day. The trail first drops down several hundred feet to Walker Lake another stocked lake which attracts hordes of anglers before flattening out through a meadow. There were very few wildflowers at this low elevation. However, the trail is gruesome in its intense elevation gain thereafter gaining 2700 feet in just three miles. We were gasping for breath as we ascended but were rewarded with awesome views back down to Walker Lake and Mono Lake in the distance. As we gained elevation we started to pass through more and more wildflowers and encountered many birds. After ascending about half way we came to an aspen grove that was full of birds one of which had us stumped. It sounded like a Cordilleran flycatcher but that would be rare. I never could locate it and just held my camera up to record its strange song instead. Upon further review I can only surmise that it is some strange song of a Gray Flycatcher and not the much rarer (for this area) Cordilleran. Also in the aspen grove we saw Orange-crowned Warbler, Yellow Warbler, Wilson’s Warbler, and many other birds. We were running out of gas when we finally came to a waterfall at the top of which was pretty Lower Sardine Lake. We had lunch beside the lake and then continued around the lake where a creek flowed into it. The creek was lined with willows and fields of wildflowers, Davidson's Penstemon, columbine, yarrow, paintbrush, larkspur, monkeyflower, cinquefoil, St. John’s Wort, Swamp Onion, and many others. We were tired but decided to continue up to Upper Sardine Lake. As we continued to gain elevation we saw more wildflowers shieldleaf, Labrador tea, Elephant’s Head, one lone Timberline Phacelia, Western Roseroot, Wooly Sunflower, Oval-leaved Eriogonum, Meadow Penstemon, Davidson’s Penstemon, Bridge’s Penstemon, Rydberg's Penstemon, and on and on. The flowers were attracting many butterflies as well and we saw Mourning Cloak, Northern Cloudywing, Milbert’s Tortoiseshell, Sara’s Orangetip, Western Tailed-blue, Melissa Blue, Lupine Blue, Blue Copper, Sierra Sulphur, Field Crescent, some type of Fritillary, Clodious Parnassian, and a checkerspot. After wetting our heads in the lake we headed back down the trail. We stopped at a waterfall and found an American Dipper in the water. At the end of this wonderful hike we decided to just go back to our campsite for the rest of the evening. It was very hot that day and the solar shower scalded us as we showered. We then enjoyed a relaxing evening with the Pinyon Jays, Common Nighthawks, and Violet-green Swallows, and as evening fell bats and stars and planets. During the night the coyote pack returned and howled but this time exhaustion took over and I slept through it.
Wednesday, July 4, 2007, we got up early and broke camp. We stopped at the South Tufa Reserve at Mono Lake and walked down to the water. A California Ground Squirrel sunned on a rock. There were Sage Thrasher, Vesper Sparrow, Brewer’s Sparrow, California Gull, Common Nighthawk, and Violet-green Swallows to enjoy on the boardwalk plus the outstanding views of tufa in the morning sun. Next we drove up Tioga Pass into Yosemite National Park to the Porcupine Creek trailhead on Tioga Road. We were planning to take it 14 miles round trip to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls before driving back to San Francisco. In order to expedite the hike I left my binoculars behind and only carried my video camera, water, and lunch. The trail was harder than I remembered it going down quite a bit to the falls. Along the way I saw the back side of a Black-backed Woodpecker flying away and Susan spotted a Black-tailed Deer. There were numerous fritillary butterflies wichh I merely admired in my haste but did stop long enough to get a photo of this Pine Drop plant. At about the half way mark the trail crossed over a creek which was full of flowers and many different fritillary butterflies. I was surprised to see Western Azalea still blooming and found one beautiful Alpine Lily. Near the falls we also saw another Williamson’s Sapsucker and a Red-breasted Sapsucker right on the trail. As we approached the waterfall we were treated to magnificent views of the valley and Half Dome. The granite was dotted with Stone Crop. We descended down to the falls, over the creek, and up to the viewpoint. There was still a little bit of water flowing in the upper falls but it was hard to see from the fence. It was time to hussle back anyway. It was tough hiking uphill most of the way at that clip. I stopped only to film two White-headed Woodpeckers and take a photo of a Police Car Moth at the creek. It was very hot and dusty but we made it back to the car in just 5 hours 50 minutes—not bad for an old lady. It was the hottest day of the year it turned out, topping 105 degrees in Oakdale but we soon left that behind as we returned to my home in the foggy city. I hate the fog and I can't wait to get back to the mountains which will be very soon but not soon enough.
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